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Thanks to the virus, it’s been a year of eating in rather than dining out for Andrew Finkel, bar a brief respite in the summer, when he escaped to a few choice restaurants. Luckily, Istanbul’s markets still offer the best of seasonal ingredients, and online the range of new taste sensations to explore is limitless
Where to eat, where to shop…
İnebolu Köy Pazarı İcadiye Caddesi 34, Kuzguncuk, Istanbul +90 530 700 0757
Trabzon Kültür Derneği Abdullah Ağa Mahallesi, Fıstıklı Mescit Sok 5, Beylerbeyi, Istanbul +90 216 422 4555 trabzonkultur.org.tr
İnciraltı Arabacılar Sok 4, Beylerbeyi, Istanbul +90 216 557 6686 inciralti.com.tr
Waterfront at Sumahan on the Water Kuleli Caddesi 43, Çengelköy, Istanbul +90 216 422 8000 sumahan.com/en/dining.html
Orōro Sushi Bar Fırıldak Sok 14/17, Moda, Kadıköy, Istanbul +90 216 345 0181 Yener Sok 5/B, Caddebostan, Istanbul +90 216 755 2205 ororo.com.tr
Chinese and Sushi Express Istanbul, Ankara, Antalya, Kocaeli, Eskişehir, tel 4441246, sushiexpress.com.tr
BeslenX beslenx.com Tangala tangalapeynirleri.com.tr The Istanbul Butcher Cemil Topuzlu Cad 17/1, Kadıköy, Istanbul +90 216 302 34 34 theistanbulbutcher.com
While gooey and exotic cheeses are proliferating in Istanbul, really good Turkish cheeses are surprisingly hard to come by. And when it comes to beyaz peynir, white cheese or feta, as it is called in the EU, it really is a case of cheese and chalk. Which is why a really good old-fashioned shop in the Egyptian Spice Bazaar in Istanbul, is heaven sent. Cankutaran Gıda despatch their cheeses in their own very smart van (no couriers there), and a man with a name very politely calls you when he arrives, which often seems to be the very day you ordered (the service is free for orders over TL150). There are several white cheeses and several kaşars (one described as biberli, peppery, the other as lokumlu (Turkish delight), both delicious. In fact all the cheeses EXTRAORDINARILY delicious, and no need to stipulate ‘no shrinkwrapping’. They come vacuum packed or otherwise with spare wrapping to use when you remove the cheese from its vacuum. The pastırma is also superb. All we can say is that we were gobsmacked. And ordering could not be easier. Note that the cheeses tend to come in fixed weights of 200g. So if you want more, the next jump up is 200g. All the easier to slip into your handback when flying off to the white cheese deserts of Frankistan.
Berrin Torolsan is enchanted by the House of Hindliyan. Photographs by Tim Beddow
Philip Mansel on a book that tells the story of the Pera-born dragoman Mouradgea d’Ohsson, the ultimate cosmopolite who lifted the lid on the Topkapı. This special 24-page feature, Cornucopia includes 28 of the images from Mouradgea’s magnum opus, Tableau général de l’Empire othoman
Anatolia on foot 40 years ago, by Christopher Trillo, with photographs by the author and Stephen Scoffham
Central Asia, a plant-hunter’s paradise, has long held Chris Gardner under its spell. For two decades the Antalya-based botanical writer and photographer has traversed countless miles of steppe and mountain in search of the hardier cousins of many of his favourite Turkish plants
Caroline Eden tells Ergun Çağatay’s remarkable story
John Hare on how the two-humped wild camel was saved from extinction
Tim Stanley on a celebration of Şeyh Hamdullah and the 500-year-old calligraphy tradition that almost vanished
A newly discovered 16th-century painting of Süleyman the Magnificent, sold by Sotheby’s London this spring (and subseqently donated to the Istanbul Municipality by an anonymous businessman), is the most ‘immediate’ portrait of him until the last years of his life. This is Süleyman in his pomp. By Julian Raby
An affectionate tribute to Suna Kıraç by Özalp Birol
Fruit poached to perfection, the fragrant ‘hoşaf’, or compote, is a simple, soothing finale to any meal
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