A seaside town, with pretty hillsides of wooden houses overlooking the mouth of a river and the Black Sea, an excellent twice-weekly market, and the laidback atmosphere of the Upper Bosphorus three decades ago.
If the scorching heat is not for you, and you like an old-fashioned seaside holiday, and you are a Cornucopia reader who loves beautiful countryside and a good book, İnebolu is the place for you. Although no one from Cornucopia has actually tried it, the Yakamoz holiday village sounds a very tempting place to hole up (pls report back to the editor). If only visiting for the day, market days – Tuesday and Saturday – are the ideal times to visit. In autumn look out for small sweet kuzu kestane, or lamb chestnuts, as well as fresh forest mushroom and a local delicacy, pickled mushrooms. In summer, after a visit to the best part of the market, the villager’s bazaar (a few yards further up the river bank), you will be feasting on wild strawberries and mulberries. It is the women who run the bazaar and the rural economy. They are extraordinarily productive, and good businesspeople, too, as can be seen in the stacks of wicker baskets, piles of wide herbs, cheeses, butter, honey, jams and marvellous home-baked bread (much sought-after in Istanbul). Afterwards, take the road that zigzags up the hill, or the stairs that are the short-cut, following signs for Geriş Tepe. At the top of the hill, the reward is the Maraz Café.
There is a good but very steep road over the hills from Kastamonu. The brakes smoulder on the way down, the gears smoke on the way up. Although Inebolu has two tempting hotels, it also makes a very good day by the seaside from Kastamonu. And it is a beautiful drive.
Dolmuş galore, if you don’t have a car. But avoid the treacherous sea, except when locals recommend it.
The Şehir Restaurant (Kazım’ın Yeri) is a quiet old fashioned place on the seashore. Choose your fish from their display or take your own from the market or from fishermen selling their catch. Anchovy (hamsi), red mullet (tekir) and horse mackerel (istavrit) are always good. But spring is the time for Black Sea turbot (kalkan), far superior to Atlantic turbot.