Istanbul's most up-and-coming district was once a hive of metal workers and light shops, docks and brothels, schools and churches, banks and tax offices. Today, don't be surprised to find a nightclub in a street of utility shops. Between the two bridges (now joined by a third metro bridge) is Perşembe Pazarı, the wonderful hardware district. Above it is old Bankalar Caddesi, full of light shops, and home to [SALT Galata](http://www.cornucopia.net/guide/listings/museums/salt-galata/), the majestic former Ottoman Bank. Along the shore of the Bosphorus is the new arts zone, including the grandest private art galleries and [Istanbul Modern](http://www.cornucopia.net/guide/listings/museums/istanbul-modern/) itself, next to the *antrepos*, former warehouses that now host the contemporary art *biennial*.