Istanbul’s most up-and-coming district was once a hive of metal workers and light shops, docks and brothels, schools and churches, banks and tax offices. Today, dont be surprised to find a nightclub in a street of utility shops. Between the two bridges (now joined by a third metro bridge) is Perşembe Pazarı, the wonderful hardware district. Above it is old Bankalar Caddesi, full of light shops, and home to SALT Galata, the majestic former Ottoman Bank. Along the shore of the Bosphorus is the new arts zone, including the grandest private art galleries and Istanbul Modern itself, next to the Antrepos, former warehouses that now host the contemporary art bienal.
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