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Kavak Balıkçısı

Köybaşı Cadesi No. 161, Yeniköy, Sarıyer, Istanbul

Gaily painted in Aegean blue and white, this low-key meyhane on the Yeniköy shore has meze, affordable hamsi (anchovies), tekir (red mullet) and the local staple istavrit (horse mackerel), spurned by grand restaurants. Licensed, because you really do need rakı to wash your fish down with. There are plenty of fish restaurants to choose from in the neighbourhood – some flashy, some low-key, some unlicensed. This one wins on charm.

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Issue 66, December 2023 Turkey’s Centenary Issue
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