A La Turca

Faikpaşa Yokuşu No. 4, Çukurcuma, Cihangir, Istanbul, Turkey

Midway between Galatasaray and Cihangir. Take Turnacıbaşı Caddesi from İstiklal, two streets up from Galatasaray Lycée. Faikpaşa is the next street on your right after the Greek Consulate and the Corinne Hotel. Çukurcuma, the popular antiques quarter, is a little further down the hill – the mosque of the same name is the first street on the left.

Erkal Aksoy’s Alaturca is a museum of an antique shop. Kilims are rolled up and kept on bookshelves and the basement hides mountains of green-glazed Tokat pottery. There are also mounds of other delights from giant wooden rakes to globes, portraits and curious lamps. The turnover of goodies is so fast it pays to go back again at least once a month. When Erkal is away, the good Serkan will look after you.

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