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A glitzy Monte Carlo is sure to rise from the most prosperous of Crimea’s south-coast cities. But for now, it still has an innocent charm, with the silliest of entertainment parlours along the surf-swept promenade. In the 1840s it was a fishing village so small that the country houses had to send pack animals over the mountains to Simferopol on market day, or wait for a visit from the Sevastopol–Feodosiya packet – there are almost no other safe havens for shipping.
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