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Buy/gift a digital subscription Login to the Digital EditionThomas Roueché on a new kind of package tourism for the connoisseur
For those of us used to travelling back from Istanbul, the suitcase filled to the brim with delicacies requested by friends is all too familiar. So-called bavul ticareti (suitcase commerce) – a term born of Turkey’s flourishing trade with the former Iron Curtain – has taken on a new meaning. For example, my mother won’t allow me to return without at least two large bottles of triple-distilled rakı, a tub of Aegean olives, and fish eggs (balık yumurtası). The nieces’ faces still light up with mirth at the mention of pickle juice (from the Cihangir’s Asri Turşucu) after my Christmas wardrobe emerged stained a bright neon pink.
But today, shipping lanes are grinding to a halt and the price of oil is soaring. If, as looks likely, the price of flights continues to rise, bavul ticareti looks less and less sustainable. How then does the discerning shopper acquire goods, gifts and artworks at a distance? To the rescue come two unexpected endeavours…
Barnaby Rogerson and the photographer Don McCullin set out from Turkey’s capital for Rough Cilicia
Martyn and Alison Rix chronicle Turkey’s extraordinary botanical legacy
This grand mansion, an Ottoman outpost on the remote southern peninsula of Datça, was rotting away when it was rescued by an enterprising new owner. It has now regained every inch of its early-19th-century charm. By Rupert Scott. Photographs by Monica Fritz
Frederick Leighton’s abiding love of the East permeates his entire mansion-cum-studio in Holland Park
A new exhibition turns the limelight on Halil Pasha, pioneer of Turkish impressionism. By Ayla Jean Yackley
A show that turns the spotlight on two women painters eclipsed by their artist husbands
A new exhibition at the Ara Güler Museum follows Turkey’s adored photojournalist to the French Riviera
The beauty of bindings
Berrin Torolsan on the wonder bulb
Doyenne of curators, Nazan Ölçer, by Andrew Finkel
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