At this old-fashioned, licensed kır lokantası (open-air restaurant), fish and pirzola (chops) are grilled under the umbrella pines. Kalendar Bay, a 20-minute walk from Yeniköy’s port, is a pretty part of the neighbourhood. If the currents are right, the water at Kalender is the cleanest (and coolest) on the Bosphorus. The spartan hurl themselves into the sea in front of the Austrian Consulate, while sybarites will wait to reward themselves with a pistachio ice cream in Tarabya. The 19th-century poet Constantine Cavafy thought Kalendar Bay was the most beautiful in the whole city.