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Muammer Usta

Kamer Hatun Caddesi No. 13/A, Beyoğlu, Istanbul

Muammer Usta runs his family’s side-of-the-road stall serving only cold, boiled sheep’s head (söğüş kelle). It doesn’t sound appetising at first, but in a fresh bun and sprinkled with thyme and red pepper, it is delicious. Muammer’s great-grandfather got into the boiled sheep’s business in 1890 and Muammer took over the stall in 1976. His wife boils up to 60 heads of sheep daily!

A close neighbour and biggest competitor, Senin Ciğer, serves the hot version, kelle tandır.

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Issue 59, June 2019 Behind Closed Doors
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