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Suna’nın Yeri

Kandilli İskelesi, Istanbul

Buses hurtle up and down the Anatolian shore, testing muscles in legs and arms that you never knew you had as you hang on for dear life. But avoid weekend gridlock.

Suna’s place, presided over by Suna Hanım. Excellent, honest fish restaurant that spreads out into the breezy square in fine weather, and looks upstream to a fast-flowing Bosphorus, a particularly dark colour here, with a lovely view of the fortress of Rumeli Hisarı across the water. Technically unlicensed, but they do a refreshing Kola which goes surprisingly well with fried anchovies.

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Issue 66, December 2023 Turkey’s Centenary Issue
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