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The descendants of a grand Ottoman family have restored the lustre to one of the pearls of the Bosphorus. Patricia Daunt charts the fluctuating fortunes of the Ethem Pertev Yalı. Photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg
One of the many joys of the Bosphorus is to arrange a boat to take you out at dawn, when a breathless silence lies over the great waterway. As the sun slides up over the eastern hills, the houses that line the Asian shore emerge from their habitual film of mist, first as greyish outlines, then in soft colours reflected sharply in the still-black water of the channel.
It was on one such outing that, looking north from below the Second Bosphorus Bridge towards Kanlıca, I first saw and grew curious about a small blanched wooden yalı far less spectacular than some of its more ancient Ottoman-red neighbours.
A 16-page feature
The Crimean War of 1853–56 which ended 150 years ago this year  now seems very remote. Why were Great Britain and France, in alliance with Ottoman Turkey, fighting Russia in the Black Sea? Norman Stone investigates the causes and reviews an exhibition of Crimean War memorabilia at the Sadberk Hanim Museum.
This modern Turkish favourite is a descendant of şeker gurabiye, the biscuit served at 16th-century Ottoman feasts
By the mid-1990s the Zeyrek Camii was in a state of alarming decrepitude. Now that the Byzantine masterpiece has been rescued, what lessons have been learnt? For Robert Ousterhout, who was closely involved in the restoration, the old ways are always the best. Photographs by Jürgen Frank
For three years, the main Islamic Middle East gallery at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum was closed. It reopened in 2006 with spectacular effect. Here we present some key aspects of a stunning permanent collection that can now be seen, literally, in an entirely new light. Commentary by its curator, Tim Stanley. Gallery photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg
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