- What’s On
Andrew Finkel goes in search of something new. He hits the bullseye with a cheap and cheerful joint serving scrumptious Syrian food, and an Oriental fantasy with modern meze.
Deep in the annals of this magazine is a review of the Sevgi Ciğer Salonu (The Love Liver Parlour), a dive in the city of Şanlıurfa, where they serve offal from breakfast until late at night, all on heart-shaped metal plates. You can order actual heart as well, not to mention kidney and, for those with an appetite for the classical humours, a helping of spleen.Heart, though probably no more artery-clogging than bacon and eggs, is not my preferred way of starting the day. Even so, I have begun to wonder whether heart is not the missing ingredient in Istanbul’s dining scene. I refer to the abstract, non-thumping kind – a belief by restaurants in the food they serve, a sense of enjoyment, a rejection of the formulaic and a commitment now and then to try something new.
Peter Alford Andrews and his late wife, Mügül, set out to catalogue the traditional yurt – the ultimate portable dwelling. It became their life’s work.
An exciting new spirit of creativity is flourishing in Yeldeğirmeni – once a place of windmills and construction workers. But will this vibrant neighbourhood of Kadiköy be able to maintain its delicate balance of old and new? Katie Nadworny reports. Photographs by Monica Fritz
Today a ghost town in the middle of nowhere, a thousand years ago Ani was a bustling commercial city where East and West converged. By Robert Ousterhout. Photographs by Brian McKee
No wonder Aphrodisias was the Emperor Augustus’s favourite city in Asia. Famed for its exquisite sculpture and unsullied surroundings, for Patricia Daunt it is the most beautiful site in the classical world
In a chilly spring the apricot trees of Cappadocia were frothing with white blossom. By early summer the boughs would be heavy with fruit, to be eaten fresh from the branch, dried in the sun – or made into conserves like bottled sunshine for the cold winter months.
After a road trip like no other, taking in many of the best of Turkey’s burgeoning wineries, Kevin Gould and the Cornucopia tasting panel raise a glass (or several) and recommend the best of an impressive bunch