Buy or gift a digital subscription and get access to the complete digital archive of every issue for just £18.99 / $23.99 / €21.99 a year.
Buy/gift a digital subscription Login to the Digital Edition
The Diary of an Extraordinary Journey
This is the diary of an extraordinary journey by donkey in 1981. The story carries the reader across Turkey’s magnificent landscapes and into the houses and lives of its villagers. The physical trials and triumphs of the travellers (and their donkeys) are recounted with humour and humanity. The closely observed narrative records a traditional way of life on the eve of radical change and is illustrated with photographs, drawings, paintings and poems.
Christopher Trillo has had a lifelong interest in language and cultures. He studied English Language and Literature at Cambridge, and the History of the Turkish Language at London’s SOAS. He has had a career in teaching at all stages, from primary to tertiary. He has travelled widely, particularly in the Turkic-speaking lands of Central Asia, and spent several years living in Istanbul. He now lives in Sandwich, Kent, with his wife, Sara, a ceramicist, their children and their nervous rescue dog. He has contributed to Cornucopia for many years.
The Foreword is by the best-selling narrative historian Roger Crowley, author of Constantinople: The Last Great Siege (2005), Empires of the Sun (2008), The Accursed Tower: The Fall of Acre and the End of the Crusades and most recently, Spice: The 16th-Century Contest that Shaped the Modern World (Yale, 2024).
The outstanding photographs capture another world and time, just before the arrival of electricity in the area’s villages. The villages themselves are now largely depleted, their populations having since shrunk by as much as 80 per cent. But 1981 marked the end of a golden age, and nothing exemplified it more than the generosity heaped on the travellers.
The party included Stephen Scoffham, who was not only a brilliant photographer but an enquiring geographer. The artist Simon Nicholas was a tower of fortitude and equanimity as tensions in the party were played out.
Others came and went, including Janie Ramsay, the historian Roger Crowley, the publisher and editor of Cornucopia, John Scott, and the art historian and curator Alice Dugdale.
It has taken forty-five years for this extraordinary journey to crystallise into a book. The undercurrents (unmentioned love, etc), evocative landscape writing, unending irritations, amusing encounters with surreal characters, all contribute to a truly unusual journey. The story will linger in the mind of everyone who reads it.
It was August 1981 – not the most auspicious time for three Englishmen to embark upon a trek across Anatolia, from north to south, from Mustafakemelpaşa and the Sea of Marmara, to Serik and the Mediterranean.
Eleven months after the September coup, Turkey was still under military rule. The anarchy and violence were over, but, although 650,000 people had been arrested, suspects were still believed to be in hiding. It is really surprising, therefore, how little suspicion we encountered or how little the recent political traumas affected our reception. There was ample evidence of strong political affiliation among many of the people we met but we did not see signs of the intensity of violence, chaos and anger we had witnessed in Istanbul and the national media.
Our party numbered seven. The human contingent consisted of Simon, an artist; Stephen, geographer and photographer; and Christopher, writer, linguist and photographer. Along with us came four donkeys: Professor Plodder (stoical, obtuse, submissive), Dylan (wistful, poetic, a dreamer, rucksacks on his back); Mr (or Dr) Dobbs (cunning and vengeful), and King Trevor…
CAPTURING THE MOMENT Expressive Anatolian scenes by the artist Simon Nicholas, one of the three donketeers, now based in Oslo, feature in this article. His sketches would prove a rich resource for oil paintings. For exhibitions see simonnicholas.com. A page is also devoted to his early work in Turkey: Selected Works 1978–81
1. STANDARD
Standard, untracked shipping is available worldwide. However, for high-value or heavy shipments outside the UK and Turkey, we strongly recommend option 2 or 3.
2. TRACKED SHIPPING
You can choose this option when ordering online.
3. EXPRESS SHIPPING
Contact subscriptions@cornucopia.net for a quote.
You can also order directly through subscriptions@cornucopia.net if you are worried about shipping times. We can issue a secure online invoice payable by debit or credit card for your order.
Cornucopia works in partnership with the digital publishing platform Exact Editions to offer individual and institutional subscribers unlimited access to a searchable archive of fascinating back issues and every newly published issue. The digital edition of Cornucopia is available cross-platform on web, iOS and Android and offers a comprehensive search function, allowing the title’s cultural content to be delved into at the touch of a button.
Digital Subscription: £18.99 / $23.99 (1 year)
Subscribe now