What you will see

Welcome to the last untrammelled corner of the Turkish coastline. In winter you could be in Orkney. It’s windy here, and on the mainland there are still remains of olive trees burnt black by ice storms half a dozen winters ago. But as Berrin Torolsan writes in her chapter on the wine-maker Reşit Soley’s house in At Home in Turkey: ‘Bozcaada means “whitish isle” in Turkish and approached by ferry from the mainland, the island looks arid, almost treeless and has indeed a whitish glint. It was this mineral-rich, limy volcanic soil, combined with the sunny climate and constant chilly winds, that made the island famous for its wine. The Spanish Traveller Clavijo visited in 1401 and wrote that he found many vineyards.’