There plenty of good places to eat in the quarters surrounding Bağdat Caddesi, but how many are worth the effort of crossing the Bosphorus to get to? Well this is one. On a stifling summer’s day, at a table in the dense leafy shade overlooking the plaj (not a car in sight), this is seaside holiday bliss. And the food – pizzas and cakes and a warm profiterol icecreams – is perfectly good, too (if not the Turkish coffee). In winter you eat on the top floor of the handsome köşk, apparently once a holiday home for the American ambassador.