Bursa’s (actually the world’s) best offal soup (paça) shop: the immaculate Pacacı Hüsnü. Like many Bursa citizens, Hüsnü is originally from the Balkans. Veal, vinegar and garlic are the main ingredients of his soups, always rich but delicate, and always the tastiest bits: there’s tongue (dil), tripe, finely chopped (iskembe) or chunky (tuzlama), head (kelle), trotter (ayak), or a mix, or a mix with more stew than soup. Served in a trice in a smart, newly enlarged (but not too large) shop run by Fatma, Hüsnü’s daughter and her husband, while Paçacı Hüsnü himself (in the glasses) is up at 5 every morning readying the next day’s offerings – each bowl takes a full 12 hours to cook. Just remember that the soup is just about finished by 1 and work is underway on another 12 hours of cooking.