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For a sense of Byzantine ceremonial life, visit the Patriarchate in Fener. The cathedral Church of St George, dating from 1720, is still used for Orthodox services. Off the main street and behind a wall, it is easily located by the red-brick dome of the Greek Great School above it. Take a look at the two Byzantine mosaic icons and the silver casket containing the relics of St Euphemia. – Robert Ousterhout
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