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A dilapidated (although it was restored in 1953) but charming mosque in Üsküdar, located nearby to the Şemsi Pasha, Yeni Valide and Mihrimah Sultan mosques. Built in the 15th century soon after a conquest by a former Byzantine general, it has inescapably Byzantine brickwork, but the grandiose portico and absent courtyard of a Bursa mosque. At the back, in an atmospheric graveyard with an ancient olive, is the türbe. Inside, Rum Mehmed Pasha’s somewhat ghostly turban sits on top of the grave.
Contributions by Andrew Finkel, Harriet Rix, Tim Cornwell et al. Photographs by Monica Fritz, Brian McKee, Fritz von der Schulenburg
Issue 67, December 2024
Beauty in the Wilderness
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