Sultanahmet

The starting point for any visitor to the city, come here to be wowed by the splendours of the Ottoman and Byzantine capital. The district of Sultanahmet encompasses Ayasofya (Haghia Sophia), the Atmeydanı (Hippodrome), the Topkapı Palace, the Archaeoglogical Museums, the Palace of Ibrahim Pasha (Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art), the Mosque of Sultanahmet (the Blue Mosque), and much more besides.

What you will see

The pulsating heart of two great empires, Sultanahmet is crammed with treasures, and nothing can really detract from the beauty and sense of power in the air. The domes are leaden grey, and they are stunning. This is the starting point for any visitor, whether you stay in one of the many hotels round the Hippodrome or nip in by tram. When you have exhausted the Topkapı Palace, the great basilica of Ayasofya, the archaeological museums, the recherché galleries of the Arasta market behind the Blue Mosque, the spina of the hippodrome (avoid the Blue Mosque itself, best seen over Turkish coffee in the comfort of the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art), continue on to the bazaars, where shoppers can find more pleasure than they bargained for. Then head to the Süleymaniye, before touring the land walls and the Golden Horn.

Getting there

There are hotels for every pocket or inclination in the Sultanahmet, from the voluptuous Four Seasons at 700 euros a night (if you can get a room) to the chic İbrahim Pasha at just 100 euros. The best are close to the Hippodrome (At Meydanı), a lazy stroll to everything the connoisseur should see; many have terraces with stunning panoramic views. In the case of the Empress Zoe, the secret is a secret garden next to the ruins of a 17th-century hamam. A number of hotels can be booked directly through Cornucopia Hotels (a welcome package of books, mags and itineraries will be waiting for you).

Getting Around

Getting to and from Sultanahmet is another good thing about the area. There is an excellent tram service, Atatürk Airport is a 20-minute drive along the coast road, and you can jump into a boat or a sea taxi to explore the Bosphorus. The downside is that there are simply too many hotels, and being an area of shops and museums, it tends to go quiet at night. Except in Ramazan, when it should be avoided at all costs.

Eating

Quick delectable lunches can be had on every street corner. Try köfte at the Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi, where köfte is all they have, served with bean salad and followed by a syrupy helva. For a more languid lunch go down to the Spice Bazaar – sadly one famous retreat, Konyalı, at the far end of the Topkapı Palace, has galloped down hill recently and no longer serves wine. Decent night-time dining is a little limited, but good enough all the same: Sabahattin Balıkçısı and Karışma Sen are two reputable meyhanes. Most people take a cab over to Beyoğlu (when you come back use the Pera rank in front of the Pera Palace Hotel to get back in one piece).