Extract

Eating Out: Issue 55

Satisfaction Guaranteed

From comfortable old-style charmto unashamed new-wavetrendiness, Andrew Finkel goes insearch of the feel-good factor

we seek solace in the company of friends but are embarrassed by ostentation. We need taking out of ourselves but are increasingly reluctant to wander far from home. The sadness of arbitrary acts of terror, the frustration at the drip, drip o fpainful news: if ever a city were in need of comfortfood, it is the Istanbul of the here and now.It was in search of the familiar that I revisited an old Istanbul establishment in the centre of Üsküdar. Kanaat is a large, bustling dining room revamped from humbler premises that datef rom the 1930s, and it serves the food people usedto make at home.

To read the full article, purchase Issue 55

Issue 55, Parodies Lost
£12.00 / $15.60 / 75.24 TL
Other Highlights from Cornucopia 55
  • Melting hearts

    An ambitious new work of classical music – based on Howard Blake’s enchanting score for ‘The Snowman’ – has just received its world premiere. This concert is just one of many achievements by Talent Unlimited, a Turkish charity that gives budding young virtuosi a helping hand. Tony Barrell tells the story. Photographs: Monica Fritz

  • Golden globes

    And the award for most versatile, most nourishing and best-loved ingredient goes to… the humble chickpea. Berrin Torolsan explores its history and its limitless talent to entertain us in a multitude of different roles


  • Citizen canine

    A fascinating exhibition at the Istanbul Research Institute that explores a dog’s life in Ottoman Istanbul and the transformation of attitudes as Westernisation takes hold


  • Puppetmaster of Pera

    Yusuf Franko Kusa used brush and pen and position to lampoon and pull the strings of Ottoman high society. Unseen for 60 years, his caricatures are now the subject of a fascinating exhibition in Istanbul, writes K Mehmet Kentel


  • The great defender

    At one time all roads led to Erzurum, a key stop on a great caravan route and a strategic bastion against invasion. Today it is a remote city on Turkey’s Asian frontier with an important history crying out to be discovered. In Part 2 of Cornucopia’s Beauty and the East series, the photographer Brian McKee continues his tour of eastern Anatolia in Erzurum as Scott Redford leads us from Turkic citadel to Mongol minarets.

  • Man, myth and mastic

    It was for centuries the preserve of sultans, extolled by the ancients, sought after in the harem, a staple of palace kitchen and pharmacy. More precious than gold, mastic brought fortune and fame to the island of Chios, today the world’s sole source of this ‘Arabic gum’. Now, thanks to a pioneering initiative, the Turkish shores across the water will be green with mastic groves. Text and photographs by Berrin Torolsan



Buy the issue
Issue 55, Parodies Lost
£12.00 / $15.60 / 75.24 TL