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John Shakespeare Dyson begins a new series on the stars of the Turkish classical music firmament. The Borusan Quartet take centre stage. Photograph by Monica Fritz
I first listened to the Borusan String Quartet on a snowy December day five years ago. The venue was the Süreyya Opera House in Kadıköy, an agreeably retro cultural mini-hub dating from the 1920s. What impressed me about the quartet was their discipline: in Shostakovich’s Piano Quintet they allowed themselves no more than the merest smidgeon of rubato, keeping strictly in time throughout. It crossed my mind that it might be the influence of Gökhan Aybulus, the Moscow-trained pianist they were accompanying, that was restraining them from any untoward display of beat-defying emotion. I soon realised, however, that their playing was of such high quality that it did not need to wear its heart on its sleeve, but was content to let the composer speak with no intrusive interpolations from intermediaries. I was hooked.
Once the staple food of nomads and warriors, pastırma has turned into a gourmet delicacy. Text and photographs by Berrin Torolsan
In the cave cellars of Cappadocia, Udo Hirsch and Hacer Özkaya are reinventing ancient ways with wine.
Briony Llewellyn and Charles Newton on a rediscovered portrait by JF Lewis
Nick Thorpe pays tribute to a friend and the much-loved author of Cornucopia’s ‘Letter from Anatolia’
A must for stylish travellers, the Ottoman document case carried state secrets as well as intimate messages. A show of these covetable objects at the Sadberk Hanım Museum captivates Philip Mansel
The birds are flocking back to İzmir’s Gediz Delta
Off the beaten track in Anatolia with Don McCullin
Istanbul, newly distilled in cool monochrome: the photographs of Annette Louise Solakoğlu
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