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Edip Efendi Yalı

Kandilli, Istanbul

An exceptional yalı on the Kandilli point that fortunately survived the 1916 blaze that happened after a ship caught fire off Paşabahçe. Barrels of blazing oil rolled off the vessel and drifted up to the yalıs, many of which were among the 31 houses destroyed.

You can walk up to its quay along the old towpath from the boat station. Dorina Neave, who wrote Twenty-Six Years on the Bosphorus, grew up here. The separation between selamlık and harem was invisible, and when you opened all doors from one end of the house to the other, Neave recalls, the breathtaking vistas and its exposed position made the house feel as if it were surrounded by water.


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Issue 59, June 2019 Behind Closed Doors
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