Open up a world of Turkish inspiration with a Cornucopia digital subscription

Buy or gift a stand-alone digital subscription and get unlimited access to dozens of back issues for just £18.99 / $18.99 a year.

Please register at with your subscriber account number or contact

Buy a digital subscription Go to the Digital Edition
Find it

Saffet Pasha Yalı

Just before the Fatih Bridge

The Saffet Pasha Yalı was completely renovated after it burnt down in 1976 – and its owner, Kadri Cenani, couldn’t quite recover from the loss and died soon after. His stepdaughter Arlette, had lived in the house from the age of 15, later joined by her husband, the archaeologist James Mellaart, when they were making their important discovery of the Neolithic settlement at Çatalhöyük.

She recalled how ‘a plume of smoke was seen rising from the roof, then a whirlwind of fire engulfed the yalı and its contents – furniture, books, a Steinway grand piano, objets d’art, mementos and family portraits’. From her husband’s point of view, ‘the worst disaster was the loss of the drawings, plans and photographs which were to be published in the reports of his excavations’.

Despite Mellaart’s beautiful architectural drawings of the house that one that replaced it – as the images above attest – has but a shadow of the original’s beauty. Start again, we say, with saw and adze, not cement mixer.

Read more of Arlette Mellaart recollections of ‘three decades spent in this fragile bohemian setting’ in Cornucopia 25.

More Reading
Good places to stay
Buy the latest issue
Or, browse the back issues here
Issue 66, December 2023 Turkey’s Centenary Issue
£ 15.00

Cornucopia Digital Subscription

The Digital Edition

Cornucopia works in partnership with the digital publishing platform Exact Editions to offer individual and institutional subscribers unlimited access to a searchable archive of fascinating back issues and every newly published issue. The digital edition of Cornucopia is available cross-platform on web, iOS and Android and offers a comprehensive search function, allowing the title’s cultural content to be delved into at the touch of a button.

Digital Subscription: £18.99 / $18.99 (1 year)

Subscribe now