An astonishingly unspoilt village on the northern Aegean, looking across the sea to Lesbos with an ancient city on the cliffs above it. There are fascinating photographs of the village in the late 19th century in Cornucopia’s book, John Henry Haynes.
Assos is the harbour of Behramkale, a clifftop citadel midway between Ayvalık and the westernmost tip of the Troad peninsula. A delightful place in early summer and autumn. For a portrait of life in the inland villages of Balıkesir, Heath Lowry’s memoir, An Ongoing Affair: Turkey and I, is very engaging. Berrin Torolsan’s At Home in Turkey describes houses both in Ayvalık and on the island of Bozcaada, where some of Turkey’s best wine is produced.
Dolmuşes work perfectly well, but cars give you the freedom to explore.
Plenty of fish restaurants to choose from.