The Ottoman sultans moved their court to Edirne in the 1350s after they took the city and, like Bursa, the capital it replaced, it boasts an extraordinary wealth of historical monuments (writes Andrew Finkel in Cornucopia 37). It has something more, however, an element missing from all those housing estates we had to pass to get here with bucolic names such as Garden City or Beach Town. Even fans of Bursa readily confess that this jewel of a city has concreted over its charm. Edirne, however, preserves not just the monuments of the past, but also a sense of scale. Once upon a time many Ottoman cities were like Edirne, a place where centuries-old structures, from bridges to caravansarays, from covered markets to mosques, are still in daily use. The grand Selimiye Mosque not only dominates the town, but, like the spires of Oxford or a medieval cathedral, it dominates the flat countryside for miles around. The imperial mosque of Selim II, the Selimiye was finished after six years of construction in 1575, and is the masterwork of the architect Sinan.
Other gems in Edirne are the Sultan Beyazit complex seen above in a photograph taken by Simon Wheeler for Cornucopia 37.The mosques are clustered round the Selimiye, but it is worth driving down to leafy waterside restaurants and cafés by the river.
By car (recommended) Edirne is an easy 2-3-hour drive down the motorway.
Waterbuffalo liver sliced incredibly thin served in tiny restaurants in front of the Eski Cami. Hotels have never been Edirne’s forte. The Rüstempaşa caravanserai, in the hands of someone like the Divan, could be wonderful. The Dedeman have opened a businessman’s hotel.