On a terrace above the road, closer to the Khan’s Palace, is the Cafe Aliyeh – slightly stiffer and more business-like than the Café Meyhane. They offer all the classic Tatar dishes such as cheburek. More unusually they also do kımız (mare’s milk). A good place to collect your energy before setting out to explore the palace. You can watch the ingenious making of coffee in long-handled cezve, placed in trays of sand heated over gas rings. Sugar is sucked as you drink, so don’t bother asking for sweet coffee. It always comes without sugar