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Kumkapi, down from the Hippodrome on the Sea of Marmara, is a fisherman’s district inside the Sea Walls, jam-packed with smoky, noisy restaurants. Kör Agop is one of the best. It is also fun to buy fresh fish at the stalls next to the city fish market on the other side of the coast road. Ask one of the small seaside restaurants there to cook it for you any way you wish.
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