No sooner than he appears in Cornucopia than the writing is on the wall for the fine old 92-year-old Pando. A Beşiktaş all-day breakfast institution, this small café has an inviting blue front displaying fresh eggs and jars of honey. The café is in fact famed for its bal kaymak (honey and water-buffalo clotted cream), which is made on the premises by the elderly Pando, who has been running the café for 50 years with his wife. You can’t leave Istanbul without trying it. Which may soon mean you may never leave Istanbul. He is about to be evicted by a landowner keen to redevelop the building.

*Note: Pando was evicted in October 2014.