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With its peaceful courtyard and limewashed adobe walls, the 17th-century Pilavoğlu Han, on Hanlar Sokak (the street of Hans), is one of Ankara’s hidden jewels. The Han still offers the traditional combination of ateliers and inexpensive accommodation. The miracle is that it has never burnt down and still resounds to the sound of artisans at work in 18 workshops around its central courtyard, which in summer is filled with sunshine and the scent of roses.
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