- What’s On
Good meyhane meze with a Georgian twist (the owners are fourth-generation Georgian–Turkish from the Black Sea) washed down with rakı – what more could you ask for. There’s also a fourth-floor roof terrace for the warmer months. Even if you don’t order the delicious hot spinach-and-egg appetiser, they will bring it anyway.
The Horn of Plenty
It is a joy to explore. New universities, a new museum, and a growing band of new aficionados who have invested modest means in old houses, have created a wonderful sense of optimism. But the ancient waterfront is in the eye of the storm, with many quarters due to be bulldozed, and the threat of a hideous new marina. Enjoy it while you can.
A stunning 42 pages exploring the architecture and history of old Istanbul, from churches and workshops to shrines, mosques and museums. Fritz von der Schulenburg photographs the Mirrored Pavilion, our cover story, and Robert Ousterhout raises concerns about the future of the ancient land walls.