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Asmalı Mescit Mh. Emir Nevruz Sokak 17, Istanbul Province, Turkey

Hidden up a flight of steps in an alley off Istiklâl Caddesi, little has changed at Rejans since the 1920s, when it was set up by White Russian ballerinas. The borscht, piroschki, stroganoff, kievski and lemon vodka are as much a part of Istanbul as the Turkish bath. Almost empty at lunchtime, it’s overflowing at 8pm.

After over 80 years of operation, Rejans closed its doors in 2011.

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