Reading list | Downtown Istanbul (the Anatolian side)

The city spreads out across the Asian side, which has an independent streak. Just as full of interest as Istanbul's better-known European half, its treasures run from Moda's tea gardens overlooking the mouth of the Bosphorus to Üsküdar's glittering hilltop mosques, including the 21st century Şkirin and Sinan's twin waterside mosques, the gateway to Asia. To the south is  Kadoköy, gateway to the Sea of Marmara into which the Bosphrus flows, heading for the Dardanelles and the Aegean. To the south is Karaküoy where histoory runs deep: the Phonecians had a port at Moda, the Greeks created the city of Chalcedon and the crusaders used it as a base for their erciless attack on Christian Constantinople. Hydarpaşa Station, the handsome stop on the Berlin-to-Baghdad railway is now a ruin but in the narrow streets behind are some wonderful time-honoured shops including the Baylan and Hacı Bekir pattisseris and bakers in Muvakkithane. The great food of the district is revealed by Andrew Finkel in his article in a Cornucopia 52, and the bounteous fish to be tried are described by Berrin Torolsan in Cornucopia 32, now a rare collector's item. Apartments built for German and Itlaian workers on the Hydarpaşa station give an historic feel to little-known Yeldeğirmeni, while British visitors might remember Florence Nightingale and the hospital at Scutari (Üsküdar), and head for the English Cemetery where victims of Crimea lie.

Explore Downtown Istanbul (the Anatolian side)
Also see Downtown Istanbul (the Anatolian side)
Cornucopia Digital Subscription

Cornucopia Online

Cornucopia has joined forces with the digital publishing platform Exact Editions to offer individual and institutional subscribers unlimited access to a searchable archive of fascinating back issues and every newly published issue. This brand new resource is available cross-platform on web, iOS and Android and offers a comprehensive search function, allowing the title’s cultural content to be delved into at the touch of a button.

Digital Subscription: £18.99 / 1 year

Subscribe now

Print subscribers automatically receive FREE access to the digital archive. If you are already a subscriber, please register at www.exacteditions.com/digital/cornucopia with your subscriber account number or contact subscriptions@cornucopia.net