Extract

Must We Lose Our Temples of Travel?

Cornucopia’s tribute to Istanbul’s endangered railway stations

You embarked in Paris or Vienna and alighted at Sirkeci station, an Oriental fantasy in the shadow of the Topkapı Palace. This was the train that brought Istanbul into the heart of modern Europe: the fabled Orient Express.

If you stepped down to the water’s edge the Haydarpaşa station, that massive German baronial pile, was just a short ferry ride away, the gateway to the Baghdad Railway. Together, the buildings were designed to transform empire – two bolts in a seamless passageway between London and the Middle East. It is hardly surprising that they helped to inspire tales of great adventure, romance and detective fiction.

That was then. This, however is now. Sirkeci and Haydarpasa are currrently the victims of a scheme that will isolate them and consign them to oblivion.

To read the full article, purchase Issue 35

Issue 35, 2006 Istanbul Elegy
£50.00 / $65.80 / 315.12 TL
Other Highlights from Cornucopia 35
  • The Grape Survivors

    Kevin Gould waxes lyrical over Château Musar, a legendary wine from the old Ottoman Levant, and salutes the brave new Turkish winemakers who stay true to their roots.

  • Othmar’s Dream

    After the grim years of the early 1920s, Turkey experienced a brief period of euphoria. A new Republic was born, and new faces appeared in this land of hope, among them the brilliant but now forgotten photographer Othmar Pferschy (1898–1984), who turned up on the Orient Express in 1926 and stayed for forty years.


  • James Mellaart: The Man Who Changed History

    We were greatly saddened to learn of the death of one of the great archaeologists of the 20th century, James Mellaart, whose discovery of Çatalhüyük in the 1950s fundamentally altered our understanding of the past. In 2005, on his eightieth birthday, he talked to Christian Tyler. We publish the article here in full, and at the same time offer Jimmie’s family our utmost sympathy.


  • Shafts of Light

    Some like their asparagus translucently white, others prefer crunchy and green. Whatever your choice, it takes lightness of touch to reveal the delicate flavour.


  • By Horse Through the Volcanic Valleys

    Cappdocia, ‘Land of the Beautiful Horse’, was once famous for the fine steeds that bore its valiant knights. Few horses are left, but they can still transport you into another world. The photographer Jürgen Frank captures the eerie magic of the Anatolian plateau, Susan Wirth is exhilarated by five days in the saddle and David Barchard guides us through the epic landscape.

Buy the issue
Issue 35, 2006 Istanbul Elegy
£50.00 / $65.80 / 315.12 TL