Cornucopia’s travel guide

Southern Aegean


The metropolis of Izmir is our gateway to the south. And ancient Cnidus, on the Datça peninsula in the south, is our point of exit. This amazing area includes the breezy peninsula of Çeşme, the coastal trio of Ephesus, Miletus and Priene, and, away from the coast, the ancient metropolis of Aphrodisias, as well as a number of busy market towns. This land of olives, cotton and figs – in the old days, even the rakı had a sweet whiff of fig – makes only rare appearances in the pages of Cornucopia, but when it does, the stories are extraordinary. Cornucopia 43 took the ancient shrine of Labraunda as its cover story and unlocked the doors to the ancient villas of Ephesus. The architecture of the Bodrum peninsula appeared on the cover of Cornucopia 9 – a popular doorway that one, which reappeared 20 years later on the cover of Berrin Torolsan's *At Home in Turkey*. The terrible theft of the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus is described in graphic detail in Cornucopia 41. And when it comes to figs, Cornucopia 16 is the issue to turn to. Enjoy.

Getting around

Best by car in the northern parts, but a gület would be a fine idea in the south, as described by Christian Tyler in Cornucopia 18.

1Izmir

Izmir, ancient Smyrna, is a multi-layered city, full of historic resonances – dusty and horribly over-built, but in a rather old-fashioned way that blends '60s delapidation with Riviera charm. It really doesn't care a jot about the rest of Turkey.




5The Bodrum Peninsula

Taking its name from its principal resort in the Gulf of Gökova, Bodrum peninsula extends 42km into the Aegean, with the Datça peninsula and Greek island of Kos to the south and the Gulf of Mendalya to the north.