The death of Sevgi Gönül, the Sadberk Hanım’s driving force, sent Turkey’s finest museum into shock (wrote John Carswell). But her nephew Ömer Koç took the helm. A collector of stature, particularly of rare books, he invested his new role with enthusiasm. The museum, in a 19th-century house built in a Swiss vein, has late Ottoman costumes, important Iznik and Kütahya pottery and Chinese porcelain. It has also a prized collection of antiquities. The exhibitions drawing on the museum’s massive collections are unmissable.