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Buy a digital subscription Go to the Digital EditionThe sad, heroic history of Gallipoli is written in every gully and ridge of the beautiful peninsula. William Gurney combs the battleground for clues
Gallipoli is one of the few First World War battlefields to retain the look and feel of the period. And at Gallipoli you do not need much imagination to grasp the point of it all: a bold dash to Istanbul to knock Turkey out of the war. It is all so much more accessible to the visitor than the flat plains of Flanders, where the objectives fought over at such vast human cost are difficult to comprehend – often no more than vague rises in a bleak ground, waypoints in a war of attrition, of little obvious strategic significance…
The whole of the Köyceğiz area is famous for its dwellings of woven wood. The best surviving ones are in Hamitköy, on the lake’s western shore. These unique primitive habitations, now abandoned for concrete apartments, probably date back to antiquity
When Sultan Abdülaziz embarked on his unprecendented state tour of Europe in 1867, no expense was spared in making him welcome. What most impressed him, it seems, were the musical extravaganzas: visits to the opera, glittering concerts and massed choirs trained to sing his praises in Turkish
Ateş Orga reviews Moshinsky’s Mozar in Turkey
Minutes from the Mediterranean, Lake Köyceğiz is a beautiful backwater lost in time. Cornucopia devotes 40 pages to the lake, its people, its unique basket houses and the house that Ali Rıza Pasha built.
If the thought of offal makes you wince, be bold. Overcome your fears and your efforts will be handsomely rewarded. Berrin Torolsan goes head over heels for offal, with a range of dishes for the timorous and the die-hard.
More cookery features
Sema Menteşeoğlu returned to Köyceğiz in 1992, after thirty years, to find her family home in perilous disrepair. She set about putting house and estate in order. Patricia Daunt and the photographer Fritz von der Schulenburg record a work in progress
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