Cornucopia’s travel guide

The Black Sea

The Black Sea still retains its mystique thousands of years after Xenophon’s men retreated towards it shouting, ‘The sea! the sea!’. A wildly hostile coastline, with hardly a harbour to speak of for a thousand kilometres, and the most astonishing of hinterlands. In the autumn of 2014 1.35 million birds of prey were counted in the Eastern Black Sea flyway: only four other sites in the world can count moree raptors. A picture story in Cornucopia 59.shows falconers and their sparrowhawks, a common site on the coast east of Rize. The Black Sea also has the bird paradise of wetlands: remarkable photos of the birds of the Kızılırmak Delta were the cover story on Cornucopia 57

Getting there

Hire a car from Istanbul and drive all the way to Batumi!

1The Western Black Sea

Overlooked by most visitors to Turkey, perhaps less dramatic in scale than the eastern Black Sea, this is still a wonderful place for the independent traveller, with fabulous food and stunning scenery and architecture. And drivable from Istanbul or Ankara.


Beautiful mountains with stunning walks, crumbling mansions, ancient tombs, comfortable town-house hotels, fortifying farmhouse breakfasts – in short all the ingredients Cornucopia readers look for.