Food for Thought
February 19, 2008 – 7:58 am
What, I wonder, do readers make of the restaurants reviewed in Cornucopia, and of the reviews themselves. Are Andy Finkel and Chris Ryan now recognised as food writers when they sidle up to a table? If not, do they drop the odd hint in order to get the very best? Or perhaps they invariably turn up on an ‘off’ day? Let us know your experiences and whether or not you agree with the reviews. Also please share your dining experiences in the unfolding story of Turkish cookery around the world.As Andy notes in Cornucopia 34 ‘I first visited Gaziantepe in the late 1980s, a time when Istanbul sophisticates sneered even as they gorged themselves on spicy thin kebabs – then regarded as “ethnic” food. Istanbul has changed since then and the kebab has climbed upmarket.’We offer some excerpts for debate:KonyaliTopkapi Palace MuseumIstanbul
‘ The cooking does not venture above the merely competent, presumably safe in the knowledge that its clientele have nowhere else to go and are unlikely to return next week.’
Andrew Finkel, Cornucopia 36Read the full reviewComment on this or other Museum cafes and restaurantsErdoba Konak1 Cadde 135Mardin
‘Erdoba Konak’s restaurant is surprisingly good. We dine for £5 a head on lentil soup, mixed mezes, excellent pirzola (grilled lamb chops) and zerde, a rather special rice pudding flavoured with saffron and rosewater.’
Christopher and Frances Ryan in Cornucopia 36Read the full reviewShare your food experiences in Eastern TurkeyMiklaThe Marmara Pera HotelTepebasi, Istanbul
‘The meaty main courses were tasty. I had a glazed entrecote of lamb –a succulent cut which can sometimes be found in upmarket kebab restaurants. Also good was the lightly smoked lamb, pre-sliced and arranged like warm sashimi on a plate. The sea bass was only so-so … We had forsaken a first course so as to have room for desserts. These were good. Proper ice-cream alongside chocolaty chocolate cake and fondant puddings, and a pressed pear tart that had a blend of strong flavours including fennel and an odd but not unpleasant springy texture.’
Andrew Finkel, Cornucopia 37
Comment on this or other hotel restaurants
We would also like to begin a Turkish Restaurants Abroad directory so suggestions for the short-list are most welcome.
Zaytinya
701 9th St NW
Washington DC
‘The Adana Kebab “Tike” was not cut into tike (or bits) at all. But never mind. I watched sympathetically as one of my dining companions, someone who actually comes from Adana, stuck her fork into it. She flinched and almost looked ill when the meat bled. And it tasted of cumin. We sent the kebab back. It came back bloody.’
Andrew Finkel, Cornucopia 34