To what strange place

Ian Nagoski + The Family Elan

To What Strange Place,’ The Music of the Ottoman-American Diaspora

February 11, 2012 8 p.m.

Tickets: £7 advance (buy here) / £8 on the door

Cafe OTO

18 – 22 Ashwin Street
Dalston, London
E8 3DL
 

For those of you in London, we advise you not to miss this talk on Ottoman Diaspora Music by self-educated ethnomusicologist Ian Nagoski, part of his speaking tour that will take place throughout the UK and Europe. Nagoski is the producer of the 3-disc compilation album “To what strange place: The Music of the Ottoman-American Diaspora, 1916-1929.” The lecture will be followed by a concert by the bouzouki/bass/percussion trio, The Family Elan.

15 years ago in Baltimore, Nagoski started collecting old 78s from record stores and resolved to adhere to one personal rule: “anything that isn’t in English, buy it.” And so he did. His records included music from Turkish, Greek, Armenian, Jewish, Assyrian and many other origins. Even though at the beginning he couldn’t quite understand what he was coming across, in time he came to realize that this wide range of old recordings in different languages came from one only source, immigrants from the Ottoman Empire in its final stages of collapse. This moment of illumination changed everything for Nagoski. As he continued his research more thoroughly, he found out the musicians were extremely accomplished, some of them having played for royalty.

The melodies that he found are at times powerful, fierce and dashing, and sometimes they are nostalgic, sombre and mellow. After all, these were the people who had left their homeland for a new but hazy future in the New World.  On the album you can listen to the bitter-sweet voice of the long-forgotten Marika Papagika singing songs about Smyrna, or Ahilleas Pulo’s regretful words- “Why did I come to America? I’m bewildered, I became a tramp, Now I regret it a thousand times, but what’s passed is passed, there is no way (back).”

You also hear folk recordings that inspired famous American hits –such as the soundtrack to Quentin Tarantino’s film Pulp Fiction, ‘Misirlou’, which was also recorded in Greece and in Turkey. (You may know the famous Zeki Müren version of the song in Turkish, with the title Yaralı Gönül (Wounded Heart))

Nagoski comes to the conclusion that this music from the Ottoman Empire is part of American folk music history. In his short documentary film about the project (watch trailer), he says: “Country, blues, jazz, gospel, all the stuff that we built our identities on as Americans, started being recorded between 1920 and 1925. But by 1912, there were already recordings made in New York City in Turkish.”

During his lectures, Nagoski will talk about his musical-historical adventure. He will play some of the tracks from his collection and relate stories of migration, the record industry and the cultural circulation of music.

Other U.K. Dates & Venues:

February 12, The Prince Albert, Brighton

February 13, Hastings Museum and Art Gallery, Hastings

February 14, Kraak, Manchester

February 15, 13th Note, Glasgow

February 17,  Cabaret Bar, Edinburgh

 

 

Posted in Arts Diary, Europe, International, Music and Performing Arts, North America, Talks and Lectures | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Twenty-three or younger

IstanbulEindhoven, SALTVanabbe

Post ’89

SALT Beyoğlu (and Galata)
136 Istıklal Caddesi, Beyoğlu, Istanbul
www.saltonline.org

January 27 – April 6, 2012

SALT are celebrating the 400th anniversary of Dutch-Turkish relations with an exhibition of post-1989 art from the Van Abbemusuem in Eindhoven.

Gabriel Orozco, My Hands Are My Heart , 1991 Van Abbemuseum Collection,

Some of the works, like Gabriel Orozco’s photographs, have an immediate and visceral quality.

Others are harder to convey on a computer screen. An example is Allen Ruppersberg’s The Singing Poster I, II & III, in which Ginsberg’s Howl is  phonetically re-written – “Y SAW thuh BEST MYNDZ uhv my jenuhRAYshin diSTORYD by MADnis” – and plastered across a wall on fluorescent posters. Ruppersberg made the work when he realised his students didn’t know about Ginsberg, and its educationalist origins are attested to by several folders of background reading and visual source material which form part of the installation.

There is an academic feel to SALT, especially at the new research-orientated Galata location, where the exhibition continues with interventions by Juan Munoz and Inci Eviner. Over lunch in the Galata building’s restaurant, Charlse Esche, director of the Van Abbemusuem, says he believes an art museum needs to contribute to knowledge, not just bring people through the door.

Özlem Günyol & Mustafa Kunt, “Avrupalılaştırabildiklerimizdenmisiniz?”, 2007

This exhibition certainly reflects that aim. Asides from the footnote-like folders in The Singing Posters, there is a lesson in linguistics with Özlem Günyol & Mustafa Kunt, and Stanley Brouwn teaches geography, inviting us to walk  a few metres in the direction of different cities.

Of course there is more to it than that. Brouwn’s work fires the imagination and brilliantly evokes the excitement of starting a journey. One hopes the exhibition will receive enough visitors that Brouwn’s section becomes full of people striding out to different corners of the globe, all dancing across each other’s paths.

Downstairs on the first floor is ‘If 6 were 9,’ a video piece projected across three screens by celebrated Finish artist Eija-Liisa Ahtila. The film is a series of confessional testimonies by women discussing childhood and sexuality. It is powerfully frank and honest. Watching it feels like travelling several hundred miles in the direction of liberal Northern Europe.

The SALT – Van Abbe partnership will continue over the course of the year with selections of work from the 1968 – ’89 and pre-’68 periods to come.

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The exile

Yüksel Arslan, Artures

Kunsthalle Zürich im Museum Bärengasse
Bärengasse 20–22, 8001 Zürich
+41 (0) 44 272 15 15

Tues, Wed, Fri 12–6; Thurs 12–8; Sat, Sun and public holidays 11–5

January 28 – April 9, 2012

Until Santral Istanbul staged a Yüksel Arslan retrospective in 2009 the 76-year-old artist had not exhibited in his homeland since 1961. The angry young man from Istanbul had moved to Pairs in those revolutionary years and there he became the latest in a distinguished line of exiles.

These 240 mixed media works on paper, spanning the years 1955 to 1999, are the highly rated German curator Beatrix Ruf’s latest ‘discovery’ at the Kunsthalle Zürich.

Yüksel Arslan, Arture 72, Was ist Arture?, 1965. Mixed media on paper 45.5 x 88 cm; Courtesy Yack Rivais

Arslan’s Artures are gently satirical collages of mysticism, science, myth, biology, political outrage and philosophy.

Yüksel Arslan Arture 69, Summer Dressing, 1965 Mixed media on paper, 77.5 x 61 cm; Courtesy Collection Martagex

 

The show moves to the Kunsthalle Dusseldorf in the spring (April 20 – June 17, 2012).

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Faded memories

From Konstantiniyye to Istanbul: Photographs of the Anatolian Shore of the Bosphorus from the mid-19th to the 20th Century

Pera Museum
Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.65
Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu – İstanbul
Tel. + 90 212 334 99 00

Jaunary 21 – April 1, 2012

Back in 2006 the Pera Museum exhibited the results of a five-year project to find and collect photographs of the European shore of the Boshporus from the 19th and early-20th centuries.

The project has continued since then, only now the focus has crossed the straits to the Asian side. In this second instalment of the exhibition, dozens of sepia photographs show the lost landscape and way of life of what was once the greener, sleepier side of the Bosphorus.

A lot of shots are views over the various villages, like this one of Beykoz.

And one of the stars of the show is an 1875 panorama stretching across the gallery wall, far too wide to reproduce here. Taken from Sultantepe on the Anatolian side, it shows almost the entire European shore, from the Old City to the palaces of Beşiktaş and beyond. One marvels at seeing familiar streets as they were when newly built, then notices the contrast with the Anatolian side – Üsküdar is visible in the corner, but the closest dwelling to the camera is a shepherd’s tent, and animals graze in the foreground.

More interesting still are the images that show something of the social life of the times. Families gather for picnics, people crowd the shore on special occasions, fill a water-front music hall, or just go about their business.

Though hand-feeding a deer down by the iskele can hardly have been a regular occurrence.

Or perhaps it was?

 

 

 

The stand-out section is of the sweet waters of Asia.

It is almost impossible not to get carried away by nostalgia, even if you are a newcomer to Istanbul.

The exhibition is framed by a quote from Feriduddin Attar (1142 – 1221):

“Who told you that the celestial sphere you see is

the same as what you perceive with your mind?

What you see is merely an image, a metaphor.”

It would be wrong to idealise the past shown in these photographs, wonderful as it looks. But they do have a powerful ability to make us want to go back in time, to when things were a little simpler.

Posted in Arts Diary, Istanbul, Istanbul Museums, Istanbul, Asian Side, Istanbul, Upper Bosphoros, Photography | Leave a comment

Walk like an Egyptian

From the Shores of the Nile to the Bosphorus, Traces of Kavalalı Mehmed Ali Pasha Dynasty in Istanbul.

Istanbul Research Institute
Meşrutiyet Caddesi No: 47
Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu
 
Monday-Saturday 10.00 – 19.00 
Free Entrance

Until March 31, 2012

Just a few doors up from the Pera Museum is a lesser-known project of the Suna and İnan Kıraç Foundation, the Istanbul Research Institute, housed in a beautiful 19th century building built by the renowned architect Guglielmo Semprini. Currently in the ground floor gallery is an exhibition about one of the most ground-breaking dynasties in Ottoman history, the Kavalalı Mehmed Ali Pasha family. It reveals the influence, felt from Egypt to Istanbul, they had on Ottoman politics, culture, arts and science.

The exhibition begins with Kavalalı Mehmed Pasha – an army officer with modest ancestors from Konya, but who was keen to get ahead in life. Skillfully making use of his achievements in the army, particularly against Napoleon Bonaparte’s forces, Kavalalı managed to overpower Egypt’s leading pashas and become the first Ottoman governor in Egypt. As Kavalalı attained more political and military power, he rebelled against the sultan, sweeping away tradition and allowing his family to gain a privileged status within the Ottoman State of the 19th Century.

The exhibition mainly consists of paintings and photographs from this era, as well as personal belongings and documents. There are family photos which show an ostentatious life style – princesses in their effulgent clothes and costumes displaying their affinity to Europe. One of the most striking is of Princess İffet in pharaonic headdress, reflecting both the Western fashion for égyptomanie and the origins of the dynasty’s wealth. They are proof of the family’s extravagant lifestyle, yet they also make it clear why some conservative writers of the 19th century such as Ahmet Cevdet Pasha would describe the family as “Egyptian Riff-Raff.”

Pompous as they may have been, it is undeniable that the family made many contributions to Istanbul city life, and their architectural legacy was especially remarkable. Many admirable buildings in the city such as Mısır Apartmanı, Halim Paşa Yalısı, and Çubuklu Hidiv Kasrı were built under their instruction. Moreover, the family sponsored charity buildings, and the Zeyneb Kamil Hospital – one of the most prominent hospitals in Turkish collective memory – carries the name of Kavalalı Mehmet Ali Pasha’s philanthropic daughter.

Considering that the family remained relatively unexplored for a long time due to their negative image in Turkey’s official history, this small yet worthwhile exhibition makes for a good introduction and allows for a more detailed understanding of 19th century Istanbul.

 

Posted in Arts Diary, Istanbul, Istanbul Museums, Istanbul, Beyoğlu, Photography | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Young ones

 Bir (One)

Armaggan Art & Design Gallery

65 Nuruosmaniye Caddesi,
Nuruosmaniye, Istanbul
 +90 212 291 62 92

January 25 – April 25, 2012

Armaggan, purveyors of luxury neo-Ottoman opulence, have opened an exhibition of young Turkish artists in their Nuruosmaniye location.

The title, ‘Bir’ (One), has been interpreted in different ways by the artists, most of whom created works especially for this show.

For some, ‘One’ is about isolation and loneliness:

Emre Kantaşlı (b. 1985) 'Kaybolmuş / Absence,'

 

 

Cities surround us with buildings of a nature unfamiliar to us, insidiously transforming us into insecure individuals physically close to each other but in fact far removed.” – Emre Kantaşlı

 

 

 

Others take a more nuanced approach:

İsmail Tetikçi (b. 1972), 'Karda Ateş' (Fire in the snow), Oil on canvas

One means everything in its essence: the whole universe, the whole of humanity, nature and existence…Oneness, solitude and loneliness in my figures all refer to “plurality” in a sense.” – İsmail Tetikçi

Others, like Gaye Su Akyol, just let their imagination run wild.  Her triptych illustrates a dream about Mayans, diamonds and time-travelling Ottomans.

Gaye Su Akyol (b.1985), Kaşıkçı Elması, Supernova, Acrylic on canvas

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the whole this is an impressive selection of artists whose work displays a maturity beyond their years.  Its location within the Armaggan store, with architecture reminiscent of a luxury hotel, and jewellery, textiles and objet d’art being sold for thousands of lira on the other floors, makes it seem even less like an exhibition of student or ‘emerging’ artists.

Güneş Özmen, untitled, oil on canvas

Youngsters rubbed shoulders with serious collectors at the busy opening last night, and several pieces were already sold. The beginnings of some bright careers, one feels.

 

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Paintings of a partnership

Sultans, Merchants, Painters
The Early Years of Turkish – Dutch Relations

Pera Museum
Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.65
Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu – İstanbul
Tel. + 90 212 334 99 00

Jaunary 21 – April 1, 2012

2012 marks the 400th anniversary of the Ottoman government’s extension of trading capitulations to the United Netherlands and Istanbul’s museums are celebrating this milesetone in Turkish-Dutch relations all year.

First up is the Pera Museum, who in keeping with the themes of Orientalism and diplomacy explored by their ‘Intersecting Worlds‘ collection and the recent ‘Osman Hamdi and the Americans’ exhibition, take a look at art from the early years of official ties between the two countries.

Of course, it has to start with the tulips.

Gaspar Peeter Verbruggen, Oil on canvas, 69 x 55 cm, 17th century

Unknown painter, 17th Century, watercolour on paper

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Originally a wild flower from Central Asia, tulips became a status-symbol in the Netherlands after being cultivated in the Ottoman imperial gardens.

 

A highlight in the exhibition is a series of paintings from the Vanmour school, showing the costumes of Ottoman court officials and peoples of the empire. From Sultan Ahmet III in his imperial glory…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To a humble whirling dervish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Portraits by Vanmour himself, such as this of Grand Vizier Nevşehirli Damat İbrahim Paşa, have more gravitas and technical accomplishment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the Vanmour school’s paintings of domestic scenes show that Orientalist art wasn’t all about eroticism and exploitation.

Detail of 'Women Drinking Coffee,' Vanmour School, Oil on canvas, 44 x 62 cm, first half of the 18th century

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Pera have set the bar high with this exhibition, which also includes Dutch maps of the Aegean and Mediterranean seas, scenes of Istanbul and Amsterdam, and objects that belonged to Dutch ambassador to the Sublime Porte, Cornelis Calkoen. We can not recommend it enough.

There are Dutch-related exhibitions from the Sakıp Sabancı Museum, SALT and Istanbul Modern to look forward to as well. Cornucopia will keep you updated from this blog and we’ll bring it all together on a special web page in due course.

 

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Musings on muses

Constellation (or The Inspiration Show)

Rodeo
 
Tütün Deposu 
Lüleci Hendek Caddesi No 12
Tophane,  Istanbul
+90 212 2935800 www.rodeo-gallery.com
 

Until February, 8 2012

The current show at Rodeo is something akin to a grab-bag in which one can find pieces of inspiration. One can reach in and read a poem by John Giorno, or catch scenes of Carry Gorney’s program Women Talking, or read a section of Roland Barthes’s Mythologies. But these people are not the exhibiting artists, nor are the selections of their work even the ‘art,’ per se.

Constellation presents inspirational pieces, chosen and explained to varying degrees by 12 artists represented by Rodeo. Mark Aerial Waller, for example, writes extensively about Carry Gorney, a filmmaker who “used video as a tool to allow communities to engage in discussion.” A transcript of an interview between Waller and Gorney is also provided. Then, there is Christodoulos Panayioutou, who simply lists his contributions: a photo of Elvis, a short Roland Barthes text called The Face of Garbo, and an interview with the famous kabuki actor Bando Tamasaburo, projected onto the wall, overlapping the Elvis photo. Tamasaburo is an onnagata, or male actor who specializes in playing women’s roles.

In the photo Elvis has a distinctly feminine energy and somehow it all melded together for me. But I didn’t catch all of the waves of inspiration from some of the other artists’ selections, and others will probably have a similar reaction. There are no complete thoughts, only loose threads to be followed. But it certainly makes one think about what we, as viewers, demand from artists, and how, when, and even why an artist determines a work to be finished.

List of artists: Mark Aerial Waller, Banu Cennetoglu, Lukas Duwenhögger, Haris Epaminonda, Emre Hüner, Iman Issa, Gülsün Karamustafa, Shahryar Nashat, Christodoulos Panayiotou, Eftihis Patsourakis, James Richards, and Joey Frank

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Scenes of change

While a Country is Changing

Sakıp Sabancı Museum
Emirgan, Istanbul
Full TL10; concessions TL3
 Tuesday – Sunday 10:00 – 18:00; Open until 20:00 on Wednesdays.
 

The Sakıp Sabancı Museum has put nearly a hundred paintings from its collection of Turkish art from the late Ottoman and early Republican periods on display, in a new permanent exhibition called ‘While a Country is Changing.’

Nazmi Ziya Güran (1881-1937) Woman in pink on a chaise longue , 1904 Oil on canvas, 54 x 73 cm

The exhibition effortlessly combines chronological and thematic organization. Sometimes the artists are grouped by generation and style, while elsewhere whole walls are covered in examples of still life, nude, portrait or landscape painting.

Hoca Ali Rıza (1864-1930) Landscape, undated, Oil on canvas 54 x 73 cm

The art of Fikret Mualla, who defies easy categorisation with his contemporaries, gets its own little section.

Fikret Mualla, (1903-1967) Moda, undated, gouache on paper 30 x 40 cm

The paintings provide an important backdrop to the dramatic political upheavals of the period, showing a continuum of artistic styles in step with the fashions of Europe.

In Cornucopia 42 Berrin Torolsan picks her favourites from a similar exhibition at the Sakıp Sabanı Museum in 2009, and Maureen Freely explores the lives and home of artists Faymahan and Güzin Duran. http://www.cornucopia.net/highlights42fulla.html

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Captivating correspondences

A must for students of Turkish in London.

The Turkish Area Study Group 2012 John Martin Lecture will be held this Friday (20 Jan) at 6pm at the Yunus Emre Cultural Centre in London. Dr Christine Woodhead of the University of Durham will speak on ‘The Art of Letter Writing Among the Ottomans.’

10 Maple St.
London
WIT 5HA
 Nearest tube; Warren Street or Euston Square.
 
TASG members FREE
Non-members £3
Full-time student non-members FREE
 Tea will be available from 5.30 pm; Lecture begins at 6:00 pm
 
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Subterranean soliloquies

A 3-day symposium begins at the Pera Museum tomorrow (Wednesday 18 January). Its subject? Caves.

The Pera Museum say:

“Caves are unorthodox places, places that fire our imagination in
distinctive ways with a mixture of fear and desire. In most cultural
contexts, they are primordial sites of shelter and ritual practice,
going back to the darkest reaches of human history. With their
threatening darkness and pagan mystery, caves offer alternate realms to the luminous and polished spaces of our civilized everyday life.
Conversely, “here in the grotto” wrote Victoria Nelson recently “you
are inside the magical simulacrum of the universe” writing about the
Italian grotesque gardens (2001): the grotto is the “heavenly cave”
there. Yet, the deep and unfamiliar spaces of caves connect us to
worlds other than our own, the underworld, the endless karstic
corridors of a subterranean watery universe, the world of the
ancestors and deities. As monuments built by natural forces, they
offer us a chance to adhere to geological temporalities and the
mytho-poetic deep time. After all, caves hosted the famous Seven
Sleepers of the Eastern Mediterranean Christianity and Eshab-ı Kehf of
Early Islam, offering human bodies a sweet drift into centuries of
oblivious sleep. Travelers take shelter in caves and their stories
overlap with animal companions who often protect them, as in the case
of Prophet Muhammad and Abu Bakr’s story of the spider web in the Cave
of Thawr near Mecca. Caves provoke fascination with their miracles,
hidden secrets, glittery lakes, sculptural virtuosity of their
geological formations, and often get transformed into cult places of
the most archaic type, as in Minoan Crete, Hittite Anatolia or among
the Maya, who made sacrificial offerings to the maw of the earth
monster.”

The full program is available here. We think Friday morning looks the most fascinating.

The symposium will take place at Pera Museum’s auditorium
and is free of admissions and will be conducted in English.

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A serving of surrealism

Dali

MSGSÜ Tophane-i Amire Kültür ve Sanat Merkezi
(across the road from Istanbul Modern)
Open everyday, 10:00-19:00
10TL, 5TL students

December 23, 2011 – February 26, 2012

Built in the 15th century, the Tophane-i Amire was once the Ottoman cannon foundry building, and it may well be the perfect venue in which to view the current selection of Salvador Dali’s works on display there now. The high domes, complete with small cutouts where light gently seeps into the building, and the expansive space itself seem to just about accommodate Dali’s large personality. Additionally, the three selections of Dali’s work, displayed here under the titles of Traces of Surrealism, Gala Dinner, and Divine Comedy, seem to be oddly at home in the historic Ottoman structure: the strange juxtaposition is fitting; one imagines Dali would approve.

Visitors first encounter the Traces of Surrealism and the Gala Dinner series. The former are nine lithographs made in Paris in 1971, and incorporate both characteristically Dali-esque imagery (large cubes, his wife Gala, spindly-legged elephants) and rather interesting departures. One work reminds the viewer of his connection to the DADA movement, another references Minerva, and is called, amusingly, “Crazy Crazy Crazy Minerva.” Needless to say, there is much food for thought in these.

But perhaps this is a more appropriate statement for the works included in the Gala Dinner segment. These pieces may be called grotesque interpretations of classical still life works, but instead of disgusting, they are completely engrossing. According to the information available at the exhibition (only in Turkish), ever since childhood, Dali had aspirations to become a chef, and he finally had the chance to live this dream when he made this series of lithographs in his 68th year. Large platters not only display birds and beasts, but they display them lifelike, or semi-cooked, decorated with strange humanoid crustaceans, humans themselves, and things that are undecipherable, vaguely edible-looking, but which are mostly disturbing and intriguing. Each painting had an ornate, luxurious quality, desiring one to feast with the eyes, to probe into the artist’s strange world. “I’m getting hungry,” one woman declared. I couldn’t be sure if I agreed.

 

The last section is wholly devoted to a series of paintings by Dali made between the years 1951-1960 in commemoration of the 700th anniversary of the birth of Dante. The 100-some watercolors are all the same size, but of varying styles and techniques. Most in the Paradise section are indistinct, colorful swirls of angels, while many of those included in Hell are detailed interpretations of specific punishments Dante wrote of in his Inferno. In Hell we see The Forest of the Suicides, where anthropomorphic trees rip one another apart, and then there is The Blasphemers, which depicts one long, stretched, yellow skull, pulled slightly to the right of the vanishing point. Dali is well suited to be the visual interpreter of Dante’s works, and one gets the feeling that these aren’t the only works for which he found inspiration in the Divine Comedy.

Given the amount of hype about this exhibition, with billboards all over town, some might be disappointed not to find a more significant collection of Dali’s paintings here, or contextualising works, bi-lingual explanations, and the other trappings of a major exhibition. The Divine Comedy series, in particular, would have been greatly improved by more excerpts from the poem they illustrate. But the title at least can not be accused of false advertising – here you’ll find Dali, pure and simple.

 

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Unconventional carols

The Closing Ceremony Concert of the Grand Bazaar’s 550th Anniversary Year”

Tuluyhan Uğurlu

December 25, 2011, 15:30

Grand Bazaar, İstanbul

Pedro- “… In the entire city, the most spectacular building is the Bezistan…a covered bazaar… with holes on its dome and with stone and lime walls which protect against fires… All the jewelers are gathered in this place; delicate works of silk, gold, silver and jewelry….

Mata- Do the shopkeepers have their houses there, as well?

Pedro- If it was so, they would have to build a whole city inside the bazaar; all the tradesmen have a shop of their own there and that’s all. .. the whole business of Ottoman imperial trade is debated here. No matter what hour of the day, it is harder to pass through those streets than to break through an army, to be able to pass, you have to walk edgeways; even in the severest weather, you wouldn’t get cold there.

That is how the chronicles of a Spanish captive in Ottoman Istanbul described the Grand Bazaar in 1552. And well said, Pedro. The Grand Bazaar is still one of the most spectacular buildings in Istanbul, if not the World. The ‘Bezistan’ that he mentions is now only an inner part of the Bazaar. With time many other streets and buildings were added and today the Kapalıçarşı covers an area of 45.000 m2 with 64 streets and 3600 shops. Even with approximately 150 shopping malls all around Istanbul, the Grand Bazaar is still the city’s biggest shopping centre and it is incomparable to any other in terms of history, culture and tradition. In the past there were artisans of Latin origin, Armenians, Jews, Greeks, and Syriacs all trading here.

On December 25th the Grand Bazaar is to host an event that celebrates the multi-cultural treasure it has been holding for centuries, and also its own 550th anniversary: the Closing Ceremony Concert – a great finale to several other anniversary events which have taken place here during 2011.

For the main event, Turkish pianist Tuluyhan Uğurlu will perform a collection of pieces from his album Istanbul Until The End of Time on Kalpakçılar Caddesi, the main Street of the Bazaar. In keeping with the multi-cultural make-up of the bazaar, Uğurlu will accompany Christian chants – sang by the tenor Adruşan Kirkor Halaçyan – and Jewish chants to be played by Yako Taragano Ensemble. Representing Islamic culture, the great voice of Hafız Aziz Mahmut Hardal will reverberate throughout the domes of the Grand Bazaar with his performance of Sala.

Surely an unconventional but interesting way to spend Christmas Day in Istanbul…

On the day of the concert, entrance will only be permitted from the “Nuruosmaniye Gate”. Prior to the performance, food and drinks will be offered. Tickets from Biletix.

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Looking back

Phantom and I am also Hyde  by Douglas Gordon

Galeri Mana
Kemankeş Mahallesi
Ali Paşa Değirmeni Sokak, no 16–18
Beyoğlu 34425, İstanbul
+90 212 243 66 66
info@galerimana.com

26 November 2011 – 14 January 2012

Open Tuesday – Sunday, 11:00-18:00

Phantom is the first exhibition of the 1996 Turner Prize winner Douglas Gordon in Turkey, and it is a fine (if limited) example of his works. Hailed as one of the most exciting artists of his time, Gordon’s works usually deal with issues of memory (both collective and personal) and perception.

On the upstairs floor of the gallery, visitors can see a selection of photographs from Gordon’s I am also Hyde installation as well as a few of his burnt photographs: images of celebrities which have been “accidentally” (yet very precisely) burned in certain areas to reveal a mirror behind, thereby rendering these iconic images no longer so familiar.

I am also Hyde is normally a collection of 400 photographs recording the artist’s personal life. In its entirety the whole installation must look and feel very impressive, though here we are only presented with a selection of 33 photographs.

Still, the taste one gets is interesting: arranged on the wall is a mélange of images, fitted together as if pieces of an imperfect puzzle, or of an honest, imperfect self-portrait. There are flowers from his daughter’s birthday; a donkey in a church in Avignon; pictures of his pregnant partner, Ruth; a salad; and Gordon’s own hand in close zoom. The images in the complete version are not all so quaint, such as his photographs of pig heads or peacock blood. In an interview with the Yvon Lambert Gallery in Paris, Gordon comments that these images represent how “what appears to be fixed can always be changed,” that, perhaps, each photo has a mixture of Jekyll and Hyde hidden away, and that even this photographic record of his life is not as revealing as it seems.

In the burnt images, Gordon deals with our collective obsession with celebrities, manipulating our gaze to search for the familiar in a mutilated figure – yet what we are often confronted with is our own image in the mirror behind. In Galeri Manâ’s selection, most of the chosen photographs are of French celebrities, such as Brigitte Bardot and Jean-Paul Belmondo (the complete list is available upon request), but there are also two burned Andy Warhol prints of Jackie Kennedy.

Phantom, Gordon’s video collaboration with the singer-songwriter Rufus Wainwright, envelopes the viewer in its overwhelming presence, and even dares to stare back. The bottom floor of the gallery, where Phantom is located, is in almost complete darkness. Rufus Wainwright’s eye, surrounded by black makeup, appears upon a large screen, sometimes blinking, sometimes closed, sometimes multiplied across the screen, but always in tandem with Wainwright’s own soaring music. Bare and emotional using only a piano as accompaniment, Wainwright’s operatic voice reverberates around the darkened space with a melancholic beauty. The music is taken from his album All Days are Nights: Songs for Lulu, which was partly written in response to his mother’s death in January 2010. In this interview at the Yvon Lambert Gallery, Wainwright said that the eye has no choice, it simply receives whatever it is presented, that “it is the only thing that never gets full.” The burnt remnants of a piano and its neighbor, an in-tact Steinway, hint at the cycle of life and death that this eye must take in, without pause and without choice.

And visitors should allow time to take it all in. The whole cycle of the video installation lasts some 40-50 minutes, and Wainwright’s album may never seem so complete in any other setting.

Posted in Arts Diary, Contemporary Art, Film, Istanbul, Istanbul Galleries, Istanbul, Tophane, Photography | Tagged , , , , , , , | Comments closed

Sultanic Celebrations

Suzidilara Mevlevi Ayini, A Concert for the 738th Şeb-i Arus and the 250th Birthday of Sultan Selim III

Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall
Harbiye, İstanbul
 

Soloist: Dilek Türkan; Ud: Samim Karaca; Kanun: Taner Sayacıoğlu

December 18, 2011, 11:30 a.m.

2011 sees the 250th anniversary of the birth of Selim III (1761-1808), a reformist Sultan, great romantic personality and one of the most ingenious composers in the history of Ottoman Classical Music. Selim III’s contribution is regarded as a milestone in the cultural and musical history of the Turkish people and two concerts this winter are honoring that legacy.

On November 29 Turk Musikisi Vakfı, in collaboration with Istanbul State Turkish Classical Music Choir, held a concert of works written by Sultan Selim III and other distinguished composers of his reign. The concert captivated the audience, who had the pleasure of hearing delightful melodies from the velvet voice of Münip Utandı, still one of the most significant soloists in Turkey. The instrumentalists were Taner Sayacıoğlu, Samim Karaca, Lütfiye Özer, Aziz Şenol and Birol Yayla of the Classical Turkish Instrument Quintet. In addition to the wonderful music, we also witnessed the delicate romanticism of Sultan Selim III in lyrics such as: “At first they called ‘rose’ to your sweet red lips that spread smiles around, but they were wrong (those who had taste) so they called it a goblet of lust.”

Selim III was also a member of the High Order of the Mevlevis and was affiliated with the great Mevlevi poet Şeyh Galib Dede of the Galata Dervish Lodge. Another concert will be held on the morning of Sunday December 18 – a double anniversary for the actual date of Selim III’s birthday (December 24) is approaching, and December 17 is the 738th anniversary of Şeb-i Arus – or the ‘nuptial night,’ as Mevlana Jellaladin Rumi’s death is known. It is celebrated every year as Mevlana considered his death a reunion with his beloved, a wedding day, when he broke free from the mundane and was finally able to join the Divine.

Many important Turkish musicians composed at least one piece of Mevlevi Ceremonial music (a highly developed form of Turkish Classical music that evolved around the Sufi whirling ceremony). As a devoted member of the Mevlevi dervish order Selim III was not an exception and the concert will present Suzidilara Mevlevi Ayini, a one hour long ayin composed by Selim III, for the whirling ceremony. Not to be missed!

 

 

 

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Talking tiles

From Kütahya to the World: the Story of Tiles and Ceramics

Pera Museum
Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.65
34443 Tepebaşı – Beyoğlu – İstanbul
 

10 December Saturday, 10am
Free admission


Lovers of Turkish ceramics should not miss a symposium at the Pera Museum on Saturday. “From Kutahya to the World: the Story of Tiles and Ceramics,” will bring together experts on Kutahya pottery to talk on subjects including the production of tiles and ceramics in Kütahya, the specific attributes and periods they belong to, regional comparisons, production of Kütahya ceramics from archaeological excavations and ceramics collections in foreign museums.

Cornucopia 46 features an article by John Carswell on the Brocklebank Kutahya collection at Magdalen College, Oxford.

The Pera Museum’s superb catalogue, Magic of Clay and Fire is available post-free to subscribers from the Cornucopia Bookshop.

 

 

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Meet the author

Professor Robert Ousterhout is in London next week to launch his new book.


John Henry Haynes: A Photographer and Archaeologist in the Ottoman Empire 1881–1900
Robert G Ousterhout.

Prof. Ousterhout

 

 

 

Please join us at these events (admission is free):

Monday 12 December 2011, 6.30pm, Royal Asiatic Society

THREE INTERSECTING LIVES
Archaeologists and Travellers in Ottoman Lands:

J. H. Haynes

Osman Hamdi Bey, John Henry Haynes and Hermann Hilprecht

Lecture with champagne and a book signing afterwards

14 Stephenson Way, London NW1 2HD
RSVP to Julie Witford +44(0)1450 379933 juliewitford@cornucopia.net
http://www.cornucopia.net/royalasiatic.html

 

Tuesday 13 December 2011, 11am, Sotheby’s

REDISCOVERING THE PHOTOGRAPHS

O. Hamdi

OF JOHN HENRY HAYNES

Lecture and book launch

34–35 New Bond Street, London W1A 2AA
RSVP to Rachael Barrowman +44(0)207 293 5467 rachael.barrowman@sothebys.com
http://www.cornucopia.net/sothebysinvite.html
 

Wednesday 14 December, 2011, 6.30–8pm, Daunt Books, Marylebone

Book signing and a glass of wine

83 Marylebone High Street, London W1U 4QW
RSVP to Julie Witford +44(0)1450 379933 juliewitford@cornucopia.net

 

 

 

 

 

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Pictures mean prizes

Actual Archaeology Photography Competition

Istanbul Archaeology Museum
Cankurtaran Mh., 34122 Fatih/Istanbul, Turkey
 
Until December 19, 2011
 

There is never a shortage of reasons to visit Istanbul’s Archaeological Museums. The main building contains some of the world’s greatest ancient art. The Alexander Sarcophagus and its related marble tombs from Sidon are breathtaking, as are the Archaic statues of Apollo and Artemis with their enigmatic smiles, and the frighteningly real portraits of thick-necked Roman consuls.

A more recent addition also worth a look is the exhibition of the Actual Archaeology Magazine Photography Competition, open until December 19 2011.

Zeki Yavuzak, winner of the 'Archaeology, Man and Destruction' category

The three winning shots are  impressive, but the 42 runners-up also on display make this a great little exhibition.

Ayşe İmamoğlu's winning photograph from Sagalassos

The charm of the exhibition lies in how the photographers have captured what archaeological sites mean to people today: children clamber, tourists pose and goats graze around the ruins.

Mehmet Fatih Yıldız's photograph was picked as the best image of Troy

If the exhibition whets your appetite, be sure to pick up a copy of Cornucopia’s new book of the archaeological photographs of John Henry Haynes.

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Contemporary Istanbul

Contemporary Istanbul

Istanbul Convention & Exhibition Centre
İstanbul Lütfi Kırdar Uluslararası Kongre ve Sergi Sarayı
Gümüş Cad.No:4 Harbiye 34367 Istanbul

24 – 27 November 2011

Visitors tour the galleries on the first floor of Contemporary Istanbul

Two paintings by Kercan Arca Batıbeki at Leila Heller Gallery www.ltmhgallery.com

Olcay Art brought a 3D movie version of Devrim Erbil’s Istanbul cityscapes

A painting by Selma Gürbüz is taken off the market at the Rose Issa Projects booth

A few of our favourite pieces…

Brian McKee, Uzbekistan #28. At Galerie Ernst Hilger

 

McKee’s other photos from Uzbekistan and Afghanistan are pretty wonderful too. Click here.

Malekeh Nayiny, Updating A Family Album. At Kashya Hildebrand.

See more from Malekeh Nayiny here.

Almagul Menlibayeva, My Silk Road to You 4. At Priska C. Juschka FIne Art

And here’s the link for the rest of the series.

 

'Abundance' by Selma Gürbüz at Rose Issa Projects

Come visit Cornucopia at our stand for discounts, special offers, and a chat.

www.contemporaryistanbul.com

Posted in Arts Diary, Contemporary Art, International, Istanbul, Istanbul Galleries, Istanbul Museums, Istanbul, Asian Side, Istanbul, Beyoğlu, Istanbul, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, Nişantaşı, Istanbul, Old City, Istanbul, Princes' Islands, Istanbul, Tophane, Istanbul, Upper Bosphoros, Middle East, Photography | Tagged , | Comments closed

Writing Music History

On November 14 the Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall welcomed Ege University State Conservatory of Turkish Music for a tribute concert to celebrate the 101st anniversary of Reşat Aysu, a revolutionary Turkish composer who is only now gaining the recognition he deserves. The concert was conducted by the critically-acclaimed Halil İbrahim Yüksel, who led the orchestra in a beautiful selection of Aysu’s instrumental compositions such as “Kürdîli Hicazkâr Saz Semâîsi” and “Muhayyerkürdî Saz Semâîsi” in the first part. The choir joined the orchestra to perform vocal compositions the second half.

 

Aysu stands out among other composers for his mature amalgamation of Turkish and Western music. Born in Tekirdağ in 1910, he was the last representative of a tradition begun by the likes of Kemal Niyazi Seyhun, Refik Talat Alpman and Refik Fersan, who aimed to transform traditional Turkish musical forms via their personal interpretation and contribution, rather than attempting the modernization of Turkish Classical Music by extracting Western melodies. By contrast, Reis Mahmut Efendi, a composer of an earlier generation who was also the Ottoman Ambassador in London, composed a piece in cooperation with Dede Efendi – a Kâr-ı müşterek – the terennüm of which was actually taken from a quadrille which had previously been played in the British Court. 

Aysu received music lessons from Hafız Ahmed Irsoy, son of the famous Zekai Dede in Darüşşafaka – a long-established school in Istanbul for orphans and poor children. He composed his first song at the age of nine and throughout his education he not only specialized in traditional forms such as makams and tavırs, but also trained himself in Western music. His musical genius lay in his ability to preserve the essence of “Türk Musikisi” while using Western musical expression techniques at a virtuoso level.

Reşat Aysu brought about a revolution on instrumental compositions, yet his work as a composer has remained little-known for a long time. He could be described as a rather lonely composer and instead of living in Istanbul, the centre of music, he chose to stay in İzmir. In one of his letters written in 1977 he prophetically stated: “I chose the music of the young. I’ve been working on developing such music since 1922. Perhaps only after my death, you will lend me a hand and herald me as a talented musician.”

The good news is that there will be two more concerts, to be held in April at the Darüşşafaka High School and at Maltepe University in May. The exact dates are to be announced in the following months.

  • The Turkish Cultural Foundation has recently completed a dictionary of Turkish Music, available free online here.

  • A conference ‘Writing The History of Ottoman Music’ is being held in Istanbul 25- 26 November 2011 at Istanbul Teknik Üniversite’s Maçka Campus. The programme can be found here.

  • A wide variety of Turkish music CD’s are available from the Cornucopia bookshop.

 

Posted in Arts Diary, Istanbul Concerts, Istanbul, Nişantaşı, Music and Performing Arts, Talks and Lectures | Comments closed

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Glad rags

“Venice and Istanbul: A Glorious Woven Relationship. Eight Hundred Years of Interplay in Textiles.

Topkapı Palace Museum Privy Stable
Sultanahmet Meydanı
Sultanahmet
İstanbul

 November 25, 2011- January 8, 2012

From Friday the Topkapı Palace will welcome a sumptuous exhibition on Sultans’ kaftans and Ottoman-style weavings, mostly ‘Made in Venice’. Organized by the Italian Cultural Institute of Istanbul and the Italian Embassy, the objective of the exhibition is to represent the common textile culture which had been created and re-created for eight hundred years between the Ottoman Empire and The Old Republic of Venice.

The exhibition is divided into two parts: the first part holds examples of textiles from the ‘Bevilacqua’ collection – one of the oldest weaving companies in Venice, founded in 1700 and famous for its elegant fabrics. This archive is particularly rich in velvet, brocade and damask examples made for the Ottoman Court. The exhibition’s second part presents kaftans which are already present in Topkapi Museum’s permanent collection.

Given that only two of the 30 silk-velvet kaftans carefully preserved within this collection are made of Ottoman (Bursa) velvet and almost all the rest came from ‘La Serenissima,’ it is easy to grasp the Palace’s appreciation for Italian fabrics. Even if some might claim that the Sultans’ preference for Italian silk-velvet over Turkish was out of vanity, the curators of the exhibition, Gherardo Degli Azzoni Avogadro Malvasia and Sibel Arca explain this inclination with the jovial red colours, gold leaves and fine patterns that are found in Venetian velvet.

The exhibition is surely a must-see for those who are keen to witness the glorious dressing style of Ottoman nobility. One little piece of advice: don’t try to go for shopping after the exhibition, as even the most famous and prestigious fashion collections may seem pale and worthless in comparison.

 Don’t miss:

Cornucopia 34 featuring

Power Dressing: the Imperial kaftans on show at Washington’s Sackler Gallery

 

 

Cornucopia 37 featuring

Fabulous Fabrics in Istanbul, a celebration of ICOC 11

 

 

 

Cornucopia 23 featuring

Glorious garments of the Ottoman court

 

 

 

Cornucopia 38

Ottoman Bursa, a jewel at the end of the Silk Road

 

 

 

 

Women’s Costume of the Late Ottoman Era
Sadberk Hanim Museum
Price £40 US$64


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Visit the Cornucopia stand at the IWI Christmas Bazaar on November 30 for special offers on books and subscriptions!

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Anatolian kilims in San Francisco

The Art of the Anatolian Kilim: Highlights from the McCoy Jones Collection

de Young Museum
Golden Gate Park, 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive
San Francisco, CA, USA. 94118

Until June 10th, 2012

The de Young Museum in San Francisco has one of the largest collections of textiles in the United States, and this year it is putting on an exhibition of kilims from the McCoy Jones Collection – itself one of the largest and most important collections of Anatolian kilims outside Turkey, with over 800 pieces.

Kilim

Curator Jill D’Allessandro has chosen two dozen kilims from the 15th to 19th centuries which showcase the rich colors, saturated hues and powerful abstract designs that are so representative of Anatolian Kilims. Though several kilims are slightly disintegrated, they maintain their aesthetic power and fit well in the de Young’s spacious and subtly lit space.

The Cornucopia Bookshop has a wide selection of hard to find publications on Turkish textiles and ceramics.

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On the money

Scramble for the Past: A Story of Archaeology in the Ottoman Empire, 1753 – 1914

SALT Galata
Bankalar Cad. 11
Karaköy
Istanbul

November 22, 2011 – March 11, 2012

Keen-eyed Istanbullus might have spotted an unusual bank note popping up recently, not quite in circulation, and certainly not legal tender, but appearing ironically in tip-boxes and the like around Beyoğlu.

The 1875 1 Lira Ottoman note is an interesting bit of cash, with writing in the 5 major languages of the Empire  – Ottoman Turkish, Arabic, Greek, Armenian, and French – printed on one  of its sides. It was also a failure, a symbol of late-Tanzimat era multi-culturalism that was nonetheless rejected by a fussy population who were not used to paper money in that denomination.

Artist Michael Rakowitz has been bringing the note back to life recently, in an attempt to draw attention to the past and perhaps nudge Istanbullus out what he perceives as a sort of cultural amnesia. He has been trading the re-printed ‘money’ for artefacts from people’s lives today which might hold archaeological value in the future. These will then form an instillation alongside a new exhibition on archaeology in the Ottoman Empire: the first show at SALT’s new Galata building, formerly the headquarters of the Ottoman Bank.

The 1875 Lira touches on a fascinating set of information about the late Ottoman period, as does the bank building itself: one side of it presents a neo-classical face to the traditionally European quarter of Pera, while the view to the old imperial capital across the Golden Horn is from a facade altogether more Ottoman in appearance.

The exhibition, “Scramble for the Past: A Story of Archaeology in the Ottoman Empire, 1753-1914″ is an exploration of local and foreign excavations in the Near East. It is impossible to ignore the parallels with the current exhibitions at the Pera Museum, where Osman Hamdi and the Americans deals with a different chapter in the same story, and Beyond the Apparent presents highlights from the art collection of the Ottoman Bank’s republican successor. SALT are known for taking a more conceptual approach, however, and confronting issues head on. Scramble For The Past was conceived of and put together by Zainab Bahrani, Zeynep Çelik and Edhem Eldem – all big names in their academic fields.  SALT say of the exhibition:

“The main theme … is the story of how an interest in the past transformed into a field of “struggle” over artefacts – a process that began in the mid-18th century. The basis of this transformation sees a shift in the motivation for archaeological activity; an act that had originally served as an argument for pursuing the origins of European civilization by the 19th century became eclipsed by the desires of an imperialistic project. The Ottoman investment in the archaeological scene was based on the rise of historical consciousness, which emerged in parallel to these imperialistic arguments. In the exhibition, the changing perspective on the practice of archaeology is addressed by emphasizing the interaction among European and Ottoman actors.”

 

We are told that the exhibition will include photographs, books, plans and maps as well as archaeological artefacts themselves. Arts Diary have had a sneak preview of the building, and we are very excited to see the space in all its glory when the doors open to the public on November 22.

Click here for Cornucopia’s selection of books on archaeology, including ‘John Henry Haynes A Photographer and Archaeologist in the Ottoman Empire 1881–1900′ by Prof. Robert Ousterhout, published by Cornucopia.

Posted in Arts Diary, Books, Contemporary Art, Istanbul, Istanbul Museums, Istanbul, Beyoğlu, Istanbul, Tophane, Photography | Tagged , , , , | Comments closed

Pera-dise

“Beyond the Apparent: A Selection from the Art Collection of the Central Bank of Turkey”

Pera Museum
Meşrutiyet Caddesi 141, Tepebaşı.
Tuesday-Saturday 10.00-19.00, Sunday 12.00-18.00.
(0212) 334 9900

2 November – 31 December 2011

While good PR is in short supply for European and American banks these days, their Turkish counterparts are having a rather better time of justifying their position in society. The economics help, of course, and measures taken during the 1990s are proving prescient today. But the Turkish State’s gradual retreat from the cultural sphere since the 1980s has also left space for private firms to install themselves in the art-loving public’s affections: Akbank do Jazz and cinema, Garanti have SALT, Yapı Kredi have their gallery and publishing house, as do İş Bankası. But one of the most established collections of Turkish art belongs to the Central Bank itself and in the Bank’s 80th anniversary year part of the collection is being put on public view.

Karaincir Beach, Turan Erol. 1983

“Beyond the Apparent: A Selection from the Art Collection of the Central Bank of Turkey” is another excellent offering from the Pera Museum. Despite being able to choose from a comprehensive collection, curator Zeynep Yasa-Yaman has avoided the trap of trying to tell a grand narrative of modern and contemporary Turkish art. The exhibition even rejects a strict chronology, though the four distinct spaces on the top two floors of the Pera have been used to form sub-groups among the works. On one wall, for example, there is a selection of abstract expressionist painting by Turkish artists who were based in Paris during the mid-20th century. For visitors touring the entire museum, this makes for a compelling comparison with the academic figurative paintings of Osman Hamdi Bey, who trained in Paris at the end of the 19th Century and whose paintings currently hang in another exhibition two floors below. Yet such points are not laboured, and instead of text panels offering a potted history of art, the paintings (interestingly, it is almost all painting) are contextualised by quotations that respect the visitor’s ability to make their own connections. How the artists have had their own work described individually is, of course, another matter.

Untitled, Canan Tolon. 1995. Mixed technique on wood

Nearly all the internationally-known, big-name Turkish artists are here. To skim only a few off the top, there is one of Burhan Doğançay’s Ribbons series, with its references to posters peeling off the billboards on the New York subway mixed with the cursive flow of Islamic calligraphy; an organic, abstract landscape by Canan Tolon; and two of Selma Gürbüz’s more simple, almost monochrome works very different to her work currently for sale in Dubai. All in all 36 artists are exhibited here in 60 works, and it doesn’t take the mathematical brain of a banker to see that there is therefore the chance to contemplate most artists’ work in more than one example.

The Dream of Angels, Selma Gurbuz. 1991

The most striking thing about the entire collection is how little the artworks have in common visually, and, as the title suggests, that is really the point of the exhibition. ‘Beyond the Apparent’ has lost something of its impact in translation from the Turkish, ‘Suretin Sireti’ – an unusual pairing of two terms in Islamic philosophy which could be rendered more literally and clumsily as ‘the interior yet externally discernible morality of analogous representation.’ Not such a catchy exhibition title, and only worth mentioning to give a sense of the serious and intelligent intention of the show, which does translate well into the gallery space.

Triangle, Alaettin Aksoy, 1988

With the addition of ‘Beyond the Apparent’ there may have never been a better time for fans of Cornucopia to spend a day at the Pera. The permanent collection contains some charming Kütahya pottery very similar to that described by John Carswell in our latest issue, 46 ‘Labour of Love’. The new ‘Intersecting Worlds: Ambassadors and Painters’ collection exhibition is fascinating and ties in brilliantly with ‘Osman Hamdi and the Americans,’ on the floor above, co-curated by Prof. Robert Ousterhout. The subject relates to Prof. Ousterhout’s new book ‘John Henry Haynes: an archaeologist and photographer in the Ottoman Empire,’ published by Cornucopia (and available at all good book stores, or at a discounted price for subscribers right here). Also, don’t miss the Pera’s new ‘Chamber Music’ concert series. The opening performance contained some questionable choices, but you can’t expect a lot of gravitas from a brass ensemble who call themselves the ‘Golden Horn’ quintet, and the acts playing over the following weeks do look more inspiring.

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Modern Life

Visual Log: A Gaze at Le Corbusier’s Oeuvre
Santral Istanbul:
Eski Silahtarağa Elektrik Santralı
Kazım Karabekir Cad. No: 2
Eyüp 34060 İstanbul Turkey
Until November 27th 2011


Santral Istanbul, an imposing five-story concrete and glass structure overlooking the Golden Horn, is a fitting place to host a photographic exhibition of buildings by the famous French modernist architect Le Corbusier. The impressive ‘Visual Log: A Gaze at Le Corbusier’s Oeuvre’ commemorates the centennial of Le Corbusier’s ‘Journey to the East’ during which he travelled through the Balkans and Turkey.

Santral Istanbul and Bilgi University commissioned architect and photographer Cemal Emdem to photograph 30 of Le Corbusier’s buildings in France, Germany, India, and Switzerland, including modernist masterpieces such as the Villa Savoye in Poissy and the Unité d’Habitation in Marseilles. Here the photographs are organized around nine themes representing the intersection between Emdem’s visual gaze and Le Corbusier’s architectural ideas. The headings for these themes were picked by Emdem from the various writings and lectures of Le Corbusier.

These photos show an impressive selection of Le Corbusier’s oeuvre while also managing to underscore the fraught relationship between architectural idea, the realized work, and the subsequent photographic representation. Themes such as Volume and Plasticity convey mainly architectural ideas. Others such as Colour and Grid shift importance to Emdem’s visual gaze and his interpretation of Le Corbusier. It is in the theme titled Abstract Tendency that we can clearly see the confluence of photography and architecture. Here Emdem uses diagonal framing and geometrical composition to great effect, creating from these photographs of Le Corbusier’s interiors the unreal sense of an image that is so two-dimensional and abstract as to be impossible to recreate in real life.

With it’s cavernous entire and sparse grey interiors, Santral is almost a perfect place to host an exhibition on such a defining modernist architect. Running until November 27th and with free shuttle service from Taksim Square there is no reason not to examine this impressive exhibition before it closes.
For more of Cemal Emdem’s architectural photographs, see Cornucopia’s 26-page guide to the extraordinary mosque of Diviriği in issue 43

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Hidden Gems

Special Offer

In a city as big and bustling as Istanbul everyone needs a friend who has the inside track on what to do and where to go. Someone who actively seeks out those hidden attractions, activities and ateliers, gets cosy with the staff and takes you along. Someone whose name you can mention to enter places otherwise off limits, or get an extra special deal.

If you think you need just such a friend, then check out Istanbul Daily Secret. It is a daily newsletter available in English or Turkish, and we think it is pretty good. That’s why we’ve made them a special offer  – all their members will get a discount on subscriptions to Cornucopia and a free tote bag designed by Rifat Özbek.  Members will also have the chance to win a free copy of our new book, ‘Robert Henry Haynes: a photographer and archaeologist in the Ottoman Empire 1881 – 1900,’ by Professor Robert Ousterhout.

Sign up now and get all the details:

http://www.e-istanbul.dailysecret.com/

 

Posted in Arts Diary, Istanbul, Istanbul Concerts, Istanbul Galleries, Istanbul Museums, Istanbul, Asian Side, Istanbul, Beyoğlu, Istanbul, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, Nişantaşı, Istanbul, Old City, Istanbul, Princes' Islands, Istanbul, Tophane, Istanbul, Upper Bosphoros | Tagged , , | Comments closed

London calling

I Decided Not to Save the World
 
Level 2 Gallery, Tate Modern, London
November 4 2011 – January 8 2012

One of Arts Diary’s favourite Istanbul venues at the moment, SALT, have teamed up with the Tate Modern in London to curate a group exhibition to be held November through January.

Yto Barrada Palm Sign 2010 © Yto Barrada. Photo: Tate

‘I Decided Not To Save The World‘ takes its name from a work by Mirca Cantor of the same name. Also in the show at the Level 2 Gallery at Tate Modern are Slavs and Tartars, described as ‘a collective of polemics and intimacies devoted to Eurasia!’

 

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Lecture in Washington, DC

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