Twelve wines were tasted: they ranged from Kavaklidere’s narince from Tokat 1999 (“long as a summer’s day, pretty as your sweetheart”) to Cankara’s Alaz 2003 (“plumber’s mastic”). Pick of the bunch was Doluca’s Karma (cabernet sauvignon and okuzgozu grapes) - ‘twin themes of tight, thin tannins and fat, luscious fruit make Karma an elegant, thoughtful, meditative wine, a bottle of which makes you feel pretty damn holy’.
Brave new wines from Turkey. Kevin Gould on the independent spirit of Turkish wine makers. Photograph by Berrin Torolsan
The börek has an extensive place in Turkey’s culinary repertoire, and the choice of fillings is infinite. From cheese to spicy ground meat or suateéd meat cubes with nuts and raisins; from chicken or turkey to fish and lentils; from offal such as brain or tripe to vegetables – the list is almost endless.
More cookery features
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