Wish you were here

Monica’s meanderings

By Cornucopia | November 11, 2017

A beautiful Golden Horn morning view from a hidden-away student cafe called Mimar Sinan Cafe on a side street off of the Süleymaniye Mosque. The spectacle unfolds four storeys up a dark and kitsch stairwell. Photograph: Monica Fritz (part 3 of her series of Sunday postcards)

Turkey turns to the classical world to attract visitors

Troy and Şanliurfa are features of London’s World Travel Mart

By Roger Williams | November 6, 2017

Turkey is highlighting Anatolia’s ancient civilisations at the three-day World Travel Mart, which opened in London today. Its large stand at the Excel centre contained a Trojan horse the size-and-a-half of a real horse to herald 2018 as the Year of Troy, celebrating 20 years since the sight was put...

Autumn sunset

Monica’s meanderings

By Cornucopia | November 5, 2017

Moda, October 15, 2017 Istanbul loves a good sunset. Monica Fritz, Cornucopia’s photographer-at-large, captures the dying day in Moda on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. Sharpshooters, lovers, smart phones and fishermen gather on the shore of the Sea of Marmara to share the moment.   Café life in the...

Nelson’s Ottoman decoration goes on show

The sultan’s glittering gift has been re-created

By Roger Williams | October 30, 2017

Was it Horatio or his chelengk that attracted Emma? In the 1941 film That Hamilton Woman Laurence Olivier played Lord Nelson opposite Vivien Leigh’s Emma Hamilton. The wife of the British Ambassador in Naples, William Hamilton, was clearly not the only feather in the admiral's cap. The sparkling turban decoration,...

Republic Day

Monica's meanderings

By Cornucopia | October 29, 2017

In a year that has been one of the most financially crippling in its 500-year history the Grand Bazaar resiliantly raises morale by celebrating today's Republic Day (Cumhuriyet Bayramı) with all the gusto it can summon. Here flags and Atatürk banners bring a festive glow the Yağlıkçılar Sokak, the lively...

Dimitrie Cantemir finds a new audience

Jordi Savall plays in his Ottoman world

By Roger Williams | October 24, 2017

The concert at the Wigmore Hall in London on Saturday (see Events), given by Jordi Savall and Hespèrion XXI, is an opportunity for a British audience to get to know more about Dimitrie Cantemir (1673–1723), whose collection of Turkish, Armenian and Sephardic works in his Book of the Science of...

Portrait of an artist

The muralist that inspired the cover of the new Cornucopia

By Cornucopia | October 23, 2017

Barış Suyabatmaz, the artist whose mural features so prominently in Monica Fritz's photograph on the cover of the latest Cornucopia, out this week, made his career following his family’s footsteps. He is the grandson and son of Istanbul sign-painters and the great-grandson of an Ottoman calligraphist and teaches Traditional Arts...

Howard Hodgkin: a grand gesture

Portrait of an Artist, the Howard Hodgkin sale at Sotheby’s, October 24, 2017

By Thomas Roueché | October 15, 2017

That Howard Hodgkin (1932–2017) was an important collector of Indian Art is well known – not least from the frequent displays of his work internationally (two might be Visions of Mughal India: The Collection of Howard Hodgkin, at the Ashmolean, Oxford; and Sultans of Deccan India, 1500-1700, Opulence and Fantasy,...
Posted in Fine Art, Islamic Art

Weekend gallery guide: Heaven and Hell on Istiklal

Two shows that transcend the Beyoğlu doldrums

By Katie Nadworny | September 29, 2017

İstiklal Caddesi is one of those confounding urban space that can be a heavenly mix of history, vitality and culture, or a hellish experience stumbling over concrete slabs and construction sites, so it’s only appropriate that two exhibitions on the avenue explore the holy and the profane. Behind Mt. Qaf...

First Reflections on the 15th Istanbul Biennial

By Katie Nadworny | September 22, 2017

Istanbul's 15th Biennial, A Good Neighbour, arrives in a Turkey grappling with a particularly eventful two years. I’ve had the opportunity so far to see three of the six main exhibition spaces: The Galata Greek Primary School, the Pera Museum, and the Istanbul Modern. While it’s heartening to see so...

Young masters of the horn

The horn maestro Radovan Vlatković returns to Urla for the 2017 UMA masterclasses

By Berrin Torolsan and John Scott | September 14, 2017

The great Croatian horn-player Radovan Vlatković is giving the first of this year’s masterclasses at the Urla Music Academy (UMA). Four days of happy music-making culminate in a concert at 7pm on Saturday evening (September 17). Tickets are free (and donations towards a wonderful musical project most welcome). Okan Akbaş...
Posted in Music and Performing Arts, Classical Music

A sporting chance

Heading for the Golden Horn to catch the rowing races

By Emily Arauz | September 8, 2017

The Balkan Rowing Championship takes place in Haliç this year on September 9–10. This will be a ‘Junior’ championship (18 and below). Consequently, the Haliç will be closed to the ship traffic for this event. Rowing races are ideally followed by bicycles or at the finish area but unfortunately following...

Jewellery from Byzantine coins

Metal detectors strike gold in Norfolk

By Roger Williams | August 29, 2017

The fields of Britain are constantly roamed by metal detectorists, hoping that one day they might have the luck of Godfrey Pratt. When recently searching near his home in Attleborough, Norfolk, the amateur archaeologist saw what he thought was a bottle-top. “I was amazed how perfect it came out of...

On an Island

Crossing borders…

By Emily Arauz | August 22, 2017

…Waves roll Lift us in blue Drift us Seep right through And colour us blue… excerpt from ‘The Blue', written by David Gilmour/Polly Samson, on D Gilmour’s On an Island album (2006) David Gilmour’s album On an Island will forever be my summer soundtrack since I first laid eyes on...

Weekend gallery guide: Sprawling and free-wheeling

Istanbul this weekend (August 19–20)

By Katie Nadworny | August 18, 2017

Two very different shows are on view on Bankalar Caddesi, one a sprawling and free-wheeling exhibition of a collective, and the other a collection of various artists. Each, though, use their scope to great effect. Mouth to Mouth at SALT Galata, Karaköy Initially, Mouth to Mouth, the mid-career retrospective of Berlin-based collective...

Tulip art via Amsterdam

Gavin Turk's name inspires an exhibition

By Roger Williams | August 7, 2017

Inspired in part by his name, the British conceptual artist Gavin Turk has curated an exhibition based on tulips, currently on show at the Bowes Museum in Teesdale, UK. The idea was put forward by Turk’s friend and fellow artist from student days at the Chelsea School of Art, Philippa...

Weekend gallery guide: Echoes of war

Istanbul this weekend (July 29–30)

By Katie Nadworny | July 28, 2017

Looking for something to do this weekend? Here’s one exhibit you should be sure to catch. Echo of Homs at Depo, Tophane Depo’s show Echo of Homs isn’t about war, which somehow makes the specter of war more present. Featuring the work of Syrian artists from Homs and archival photographs...

Weekend gallery guide: At the Modern

Istanbul this weekend (July 22–23)

By Katie Nadworny | July 21, 2017

With the Istanbul Modern’s summer exhibitions closing soon, don’t miss the chance to see the excellent artists on display. Fahrelnissa Zeid: A Selection from the Istanbul Modern Collection at Istanbul Modern, Tophane Fahrelnissa Zeid's dramatic abstracts have always been a cornerstone of the Istanbul Modern's collection. Now, as a...

Weekend gallery guide: Chaos and calm

Istanbul this weekend (July 15–16)

By Katie Nadworny | July 14, 2017

Two shows are closing this weekend, one collaborative and chaotic, one calm and quiet. Both are worth catching before they slip away. In the Blink of a Bird at DEPO, Tophane This show is accompanied by a large sign that request visitors don’t take the prints, and it quickly becomes...

Aphrodisias added to Unesco list

Greco-Roman city joins 16 other Turkish World Heritage Sites

By Roger Williams | July 12, 2017

Aphrodisias, the cover story in *Cornucopia 11,  was a notable addition to this year’s list of Unesco World Heritage Sites. It is the 17th in Turkey to achieve this status, which includes a diversity of places from Çatalhöyük and Troy to parts of Bursa and Istanbul. The city of Aphrodite...
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