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Don McCullin sets off with Barnaby Rogerson on the road to the ancient ruins of Pergamon. Nicholas Haslam joins forces with the photographer Paul Veysseyre to record the vanishing villages of Lake Eğirdir. The avant-garde artist Alexis Gritchenko, a refugee from the Russian Civil War, brings vibrant colour to our cover. Plus: Roger Norman’s tribute to Norman Stone; Andrew Byfield bulb-hunting on Bozdağ; and ice-cool sherbets and sorbets.
A bumper 176-page edition, No 60 celebrates Istanbul’s myriad museums, from the Topkapı to Atatürk’s Art Deco Florya Sea Pavilion, not forgetting teasures further afield, such as the jaw-dropping new Troy Museum on the Dardanelles and OMM, the exciting new modern art museum in Eskişehir
Secret chambers of the black eunuchs; how Iznik lit up a Yorkshire mansion; Orientalist selfies: JF Lewis and his wife in picture; Black Sea hunting: first catch your sparrowhawk; shepherd’s delight: the wonders of white cheese…
The Silk Road citadel of İshak Pasha on Anatolia’s eastern frontier, Byzantine glory in Sicily, the Assyrian Empire’s final flourish; Vambery, Orientalist and spy; a legendary lunch – Pandeli revived, beetroot beauty…
Birds of the Kızırlırmak Delta, intrepid travels on horseback through ancient Phrygia, the magnificent Bosphorus panoramas of Joseph Schranz, Iris Love and Aphrodite, Kavafyan Konak – the oldest surviving Bosphorus mansion, and peerless pears.
The ruins of Aphrodisias; the tents of the nomads; Istanbul’s creative quarter and the joys of apricots.
Ottoman caricatures, a photographer’s hymn to Anatolia, sublime Lycian bulbs, enigmatic Erzurum; Çeşme’s mastic revival, Feyhaman Duran – Ottoman Impressionist, the Benaki’s new palm court, biographies of Mark Sykes and Steven Runciman, and the memoirs of two freewheeling scholar-adventurers. Plus the cherished chickpea and its many gifts.
Exploring the landmarks round Lake Van, revisiting Classical Turkey, swimming through Istanbul and protecting the wildflowers beyond the city walls. Plus Bellini’s mystery portraits, the Sultan’s Bosphorus pavilion and dazzling Ottoman jewellery.
Istanbul’s unspoilt archipelago: The final leg of Cornucopia’s four-part progress through Istanbul covers the archipelago in the Sea of Marmara, just 15 miles across the water from the domes of Ayasofya but a world away.
Istanbul Unwrapped: Part Three
Vanishing villages and historic yalıs, iconic views and hidden treasures… catch them while you can
The second part of our four-part guide to Istanbul covers the historic European quarters of Beyoğlu (Pera) Karaköy (Galata) and Tophane, the new imperial city built by the sultans in the 19th century above the old Ottoman village of Beşiktaş
The first in a series of connoisseurs’ guides: 100 pages on the Old City and the Golden Horn; Byzantium’s legacy; the sultans’ barges restored; and a Turkish bean feast
Crimea: a 100-page celebration of Ukraine’s Black Sea peninsular; Min Hogg on silk seraglios at Sadberk Hanım; modern art in the Black Sea Mountains; and heavenly mulberries
Denizli’s painted mosques; the sultan’s private chambers; Hadrian at Sagalassos; Village Institutes; and cooking with grapes
How the Netherlands captured the Levant; Josephine Powell; Ankara’s hidden assets; cool, crisp watermelon; and fabulous fizz
A Hungarian pasha’s luminous retreat; Osman Hamdi Bey; Oxford’s precious lemon squeezer; Ottoman art nouveau; peas that please
JF Lewis in Istanbul; Baku’s oil-boom palaces; Kastamonu’s Black Sea beauties; fragrant strawberries
Sixties Istanbul; jazzing up the Washington Embassy; a century of Anatolian travel from Cappadocia 1884 to Cnidus 2010; perfect plum recipes
The sanctuary of Zeus at Labraunda; Divriği’s riot of carving; Ephesian merchants; Melchior Lorck; the tastiest turnips and radishes
Kars is back on the map; captivating Kaçkars; Istanbul’s first Impressionists; Queen of the Uighurs; pick a pepper
Architecture, bathing etiquette and travellers’ tales; unearthing the Lion of Knidos; the court of Selim III; celeriac recipes
The issue-by-issue guide; British Orientalist painting; Byzantium at the Royal Academy; marble portraits from Aphrodisias
Ankara’s embassies; Gürbüz Doğan Ekşioğlu; Phrygian Highlands; Anatolian nomads; George Maw crocus collector; Sweden’s blue and white porcelain; fragrant melons
The birthplace of the Ottoman Empire; Arabians and Thoroughbreds; Ahmed Vefik Pasha; the Yıldız Palace albums; Turkic peoples; ‘Wildflowers of Anatolia’ – a splendid book; freshly baked çörek
Istanbul’s carpet bonanza; Ottoman Edirne; Lesley Blanch; Mongol arts and culture; the Yürüks of the Bolkars; motoring eastwards; slow-cooked stews
Falling for the Palace Lady’s Summerhouse; Sir Percy Sykes in Kashgar; The Zeyrek Camii – bricks of Byzantium; the V&A’s Islamic treasures; Crimea – a brief history of an unnecessary war; kurabiye for tea
Othmar Pferschy’s poetic photography; Cappadocia on horseback; Istanbul’s railway stations; James Mellaart, archaeologist; Europe after the Crimean War; delicate asparagus
Costume drama; Black Sea country houses; the legacy of the last Caliph; okra cooked to perfection
The Royal Academy’s sensational ‘Turks’; 10,000 years of the female form; savouring Samarkand; strolling in the Taurus; börek
The city in all its glory – a comprehensive district-by-district guide; essays on the city, past and present; fish from the Bosphorus
Christian Tyler on the plight of China’s Turks; Aali Pasha; the Caliph’s daughter; truffles; the flowers that bring the Taurus to life
Beyond the Euphrates: Lake Van and beyond; Josephine Powell; Vanmour, painter in the palace; the Turks of Thrace; Hôtel Lamballe; Jerusalem artichokes
Tulips and turbans: the Ottoman passion for gardens and flowers; Turkoman Kırkuk; the Virgin Mary’s House at Ephesus; Namık Kemal; a modern villa in Kalkan; top tomatoes
Portraits from another age; the Kaçkars on foot; exploring Georgia; Russian rooftop churches; Trotsky on Prinkipo; Zonaro; cooking with carrots
The timeless ceramics of Alev Ebüzziya Siesbye; the Fruchtermann postcards; the art of the Chora; Turhan Baytop; Stratford Canning; Beaufort’s map; apples old and delicious
Southeast Turkey 8000BC; the Camondo dynasty’s conquest of Paris; Mount Ida’s wild beauties; milk puddings for sophisticats
The visionary lens of Zafer Baran; The Sultan’s blue and white porcelain; the Safvet Pasha Yalı; Antakya, ancient Anthioch; Istanbul’s Crimean Church; Orchid-hunting; Georgian wine; Sweet chestnuts
A journey to Turkey’s Arabian frontier; Pope John’s work in wartime Turkey; the madder quest; Capt Fred Burnaby, gentle giant; new wines from Gallipoli; surefire soups
Ottoman silk; sailing in Cilicia; attar of roses; the master of plaster; George Bean and Terrance Mitford; perfect peaches
Philip Mansel and Fritz von der Schulenburg tiptoe through a guesthouse for Kaiser Wilhelm; Kula – hot spring revival; Ottoman tents; Taurus flowers of the Kasnak Forest; Mahmud II’s passion for Rossini; Delectable köfte
Ottoman influence: from Damascene palaces to leafy green feasts; Vita and Harold in Istanbul; to the yalı born: the Germen Yali; attempting Ararat; greenbelt or backyard – Istanbul’s fate in the balance; Lord Salisbury and the Eastern Question
Lake Köyceğiz: a 40-page celebration; Hussein Chalayan; Istanbul Agop cymbals; Abdülaziz in London; Mozart in Turkey; Gallipoli remembered; superb offal recipes
Çatalhöyük – amazing paintings from the world’s first city; Safranbolu; Edirne’s blue and white tiles; the Ottoman treasure of Poland’s kings; fatal flaw – the tragedy of Turkey’s 1999 earthquake
High society on the Bosphorus; Hedonists head for the ruins; Last man down the Danube; A paradise garden in Cambridge; The ultimate summer house
Turkey’s celebration of the 20th century; escape to the silent hills of Eğridir; Zeki Pasha’s waterside palace; cabbages fit for kings; the compleat carpet buyer
Postcards from Paradise: a grand tour of Büyükada, calling at three magical island houses. Candles with cachet; Zeki Kuneralp, ambassador extraordinary; the lighthouse of Cape Chelidonia; and feasting on figs
Lifting the veil on Ottoman Athos; pursuing snowcocks and purple primroses; the glorious globe artichoke
Travellers’ tomes – the Atabey library; Cappadocian houses lovingly revived; Zeynep Fadıllıoğlu’s theatrical antiques; pumpkins
From Alanya’s medieval gardens to Cihangir window boxes; The Book of Tulips; Rüstem Pasha’s tiles; Great Dixter; mountain azaleas and alpine gardens; cooking with herbs
Brian Sewell’s search for churches; rainforest mansions; the slow train to Sapanca; tales of old Trabzon; plus Norman Stone’s Ankara
The glories of Aphrodisias; the lost valleys of Cappadocia; the road to Kubadabad; and the cool courtyards of Amasya
What did Ingres learn from Lady Mary? Magic fire on the coast of Lycia; the Hekim Pasha Yalı; the Süleymaniye Library; an Englishman in Hatay; Leighton House; the admirable aubergine
Bare luxury in Bodrum; a clifftop library on the Bosphorus; the celestial domes of Üskudar; birds in paradise; the saffron gatherers; Bellini’s Chinoiserie; pickles and relishes
Summer fashion; the Kıbrıslı Yalı; an Aegean odyssey; Yunus Emre; a Kuşadası garden; the Grand Bazaar; and cooking with yoghurt
Istanbul in peril – the fall of Europe’s finest city walls; a jewel on the Bosphorus – the Nuri Birgi Yalı; secrets of the perfect pilav; travels on the plains of Konya; sparrowhawks and falconry; Zaro Ağa (1774–1934), last of the lions; William Allan’s provocative ‘Slave Market’
Summer mansions – diplomatic secrets on the Bosphorus; flowering penguins – the bizarre flora of southwest Turkey; 15th-century Ottoman bookbinding; the art of ebru; travelling light – an apartment in Maçka; the charm of the cherry
Pera’s winter embassies; Thomas Hope’s Benaki drawings; the Abkhazians; Ottoman silk weaving; migrant marsh birds; and pomegranates
Exploring Istanbul from Beyoğlu to the Bosphorus, from the Golden Horn to the Princes’ islands; Tamara and David Talbot Rice; the Bechers’ Ayazpaşa apartment; Rosie Baldwin; cooking with the marrow and its flower
The Mocan Yalı; Pierre Loti’s harem hoax; Anatolia’s vanishing bulbs; Anthony Bryer’s Black Sea diary; shopping for silver
In pursuit of Alexander; the hay meadows of Bithynia; the birthplace of André Chénier ; the painted rug; Freya Stark in Turkey
The much sought after launch issue: the miracle of Santa Sophia; Turkey’s lake district; Sir David Wilkies’s exquisite paintings; Ara Güler’s photographs; Bornova gardens; boating on the Bosphorus; the quintessential quince
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