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Issue 4, 1993

The Absolute Guide to Istanbul

£50.00 / $64.59 / €59.32
($/€ approx)

How to Explore Istanbul, in search of the best-kept secrets – from Beyoğlu to the Bosphorus, from the Golden Horn to the Princes’ Islands. Tamara Talbot Rice and Rosie Baldwin: profiles of two exceptional women. Berrin Torolsan serves up the marrow and its flower – recipes that capture the flavour of an Eastern summer


  • Beyoğlu

    The European quarter. Home for centuries to diplomats, whores and clerics, Beyoglu was the elegant centre of the old cosmopolitan Istanbul. Today it thrives as Turkey’s answer to Soho - arty, tarty and smart by turns, and the place for a wild night out.

  • The Old City

    Bazaars and grand mosques. The grandeur of the city’s oldest quarter has a grainier side. Behind the Topkapi Palace and Ayasofya, the bazaars and the teeming streets that lead to them contain all manner of things to buy and restaurants to feast in.

  • The Golden Horn

    Shrines and sanctuaries. A ramshackle backwater of the city, the Golden Horn offers an unglamorous first impression. But its mysterious back streets, pretty churches and mosques, sacred springs and ruined city walls make it fascinating walking country.

  • The Upper Bosphorus

    To escape the clamour of the city Istanbul heads upstream to its coastal playground - for the leisurely rhythm of waterside villages, the smart summer nightclubs, the forested hinterland and, beyond the forests, the golden sands of the Black Sea.

  • Nişantaşı

    Welcome to the smarter side of town. In Nisantasi you can shop till you drop - then dine out where the elite meet to eat. Here you will find haute couture, stylish shoes, opulent jewellery and fabulous furniture - both ancient and modern.

  • The Princes’ Islands

    Ideal for an escape from the city life, the four islands are a refuge of tranquillity and calm where the pace of life is governed by the horse.

  • Byzantine Duet

    In 1928 David Talbot Rice, gentleman and scholar, and his new bride Tamara set off from Oxford to excavate the Great Palace of Byzantium. Tamara, an author of books on Seljuks and Scythians, talked to Anthony Bryer for this profile of the couple and their life together

  • The Taste of an Eastern Summer

    Marrows have always been a part of Mediterranean cooking, since long before potatoes and tomatoes, which only entered the European diet after the discovery of the New World.
    More cookery features

Inside the issue

The Absolute Guide to Istanbul

  1. The Best-Kept Secret in the World
    James Wilde returns to his first love
  2. Beyoğlu
    Exploring the European quarter
  3. The Old City
    Bazaars and grand mosques
  4. The Golden Horn
    Shrines and sanctuaries
    [extract available online]
  5. The Lower Bosphorus
    Downtown and out of town
  6. The Upper Bosphorus
    The quieter reaches
  7. Nişantaşı
    Fashion and design
  8. The Princes' Islands
    Another world


  1. Byzantine Duet
    Tamara and David Talbot Rice, by Anthony Bryer
    [extract available online]
  2. The Inimitable Rosie Baldwin
    Ömer Koç pays tribute to one of Turkey's staunchest allies


  1. Tall, White and Handsome
    The Bechers' Istanbul appartment photographed by Fritz von der Schulenburg


  1. The Taste of an Eastern Summer
    The marrow and its flower, by Berrin Torolsan

Business & Finance

  1. Capital Share
    Banking in Istanbul, by David Barchard


  1. Turkish Art in Venice
    Conceptual art at the 1993 Biennale
  2. Designer Rugs in Konya
    Vibrant new oriental designs
  3. Tulip Mania
    Chris Hellier traces tulip designs
    on Dutch ceramics
  4. The London Sales
    Tim Stanley follows some remarkable results
  5. Orient Stars
    The Kirchheim collection in Germany

Book Reviews

  1. The Key to the Palace
    Architecture, Ceremonial and Power: The Topkapı Palace in the 15th and 16th Centuries,
    by Gülru Necipoğlu.
    Reviewed by Tim Stanley
  2. From the Edge of Town
    The Arabesk Debate: Music and Musicians
    in Modern Turkey, by Martin Stokes.
    Reviewed by David Barchard
  3. Pretty as a Picture
    Living in Turkey, by Stephane Yerasimos. Reviewed by Nicholas Halsam
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