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Buy a digital subscription Go to the Digital EditionZafer Baran’s mesmeric photography brings a new abstract to the craft, while John Carswell sets off on an odyssey in blue and white with the Topkapı Palace’s priceless porcelain. We travel to Antioch, in search of the ancient and modern, celebrate Street’s Crimean memorial church in Istanbul; sip Georgian wines; and chase Orchid-hunters. Indulge in chestnuts sweet and simple
Chinese blue and white has had an unparalleled influence on taste in East and West for more than six centuries. Every self-respecting Islamic court had its collection of this precious porcelain, but the Topkapı Palace amassed one of the richest in the world.
They are a dedicated breed, but not all orchid hunters share the same agenda. Some are driven to record in minute detail the glory of Turkey’s orchid species – all 148 of them. Some are more interested in eating them. The botanist Andrew Byfield joins the quest.
Georgia’s 9,000-year love affair with the grape has produced many a spectacular wine. Here Kevin Gould continues his series on the wines of Turkey and the former dominions of the Ottoman Empire with a visit to the country that boasts 500 grape varieties. By Kevin Gould with photographs by Jason Lowe
Arlette Mellaart recalls her life in her parents’ yalı in Kanlıca, the hauntingly beautiful Safvet Pasha Yalı, with photographs from her album. The house burnt down in 1976, taking with it her husband James Mellaart’s drawing and photographs
The Crimean Church in Istanbul: a monument to Victorian Gothic. By Geofrey Tyack. Photographs by Kerem Uzel
In 1960 Maureen Freely’s family packed up all they possessed, waved goodbye to Princeton, New Jersey, and stepped out into the unknown. She had no idea why. Their destination was to her merely a name on a map: Istanbul. It was to become the place she still thinks of as home. Her father, John Freely, would write the classic guidebook ‘Strolling Through Istanbul’. More than forty years later, Maureen looks back on a golden childhood of parties, laughter and, above all, adventure
When the traveller Evliya Çelebi went to Bursa in the seventeenth century, he declared that the chestnuts there were “unrivalled in the entire world”. They are still famous today - and this is the heartland of Turkish marron glacés.
More cookery features
The remarkable photography of Zafer Baran emerged from a hard-edged education in a Bauhaus atmosphere. But Baran’s powers of observation were to lead him into a world of pure colour, moods and associations into which the viewer is irresistibly drawn.
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Botanists Martyn Rix and Andrew Byfield investigates Turkey’s profusion of wildflowers from Mount Ida near Troy, to the valleys and headlands of the Taurus Mountains in the south, and to the Kaçkars in the north.
Issue 25:The Orchid Hunters
Issue 26: Kaz Dağı and the Vale of Troy
Issue 29: Plant-hunting in the Taurus
Issue 42: The Kaçkars
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