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Hidden magnificence: we travel to the astounding valley of the Çoruh, visit the glorious 11th-century cathedral of Işhan, and explore the haunting mansions of Çamlıhemşın. Indulging in pared-down rustic chic; celebrating Guidalotto’s wicked panorama of Istanbul; enjoying wild crocuses; and discovering our man in wartime Trabzon. Plus delicious recipes for eggs on a plate from Berrin Torolsan
Beyond the towering Black Sea Mountains lies a hidden landscape rich with forgotten medieval churches. For centuries they were ignored, their ancient glories allowed to crumble to dust. Before new roads reached the Coruh Valley, Brian Sewell had to enlist the help of shepherds on his quest to find these forerunners of Romanesque and Gothic architecture.
In the rain forests of Turkey’s Black Sea Mountains, where jackals howl and the River Firtina (the Storm) crashes towards the Black Sea, live the Hemşinli people, who were here when Jason came in search of the Golden Fleece. In more recent years they prospered as bakers and restaurateurs in Tsarist Russia, returning to their beautiful, haunting country houses hidden in the hills east of Trabzon. Patrica Daunt visits one family and shares their memories of a Chekovian rural life.
Also see Cornucopia 34, Land of a Thousand Mansions
For centuries the masters of great dishes have owed their success to the egg. It both combines and flatters.
More cookery features
Outside the seraglio, away from the discreet charm of the bourgeoisie, the Turkish interior is a source of inspiration for modern designers: ergonomic, minimalist, refreshingly white-washed.
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