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Issue 46, 2011

Labour of Love

£8.00 / $10.21 / €9.49
($/€ approx)

With architecture at the forefront of this issue, Berrin Torolsan and Jürgen Frank take a tour around Serdar Gülgün’s gorgeous Bosphorus house, originally built as a retreat for a Hungarian pasha; Paolo Girardelli highlights the work of Raimondo D’Aronco, whose mastery of art nouveau changed the face of Istanbul. Plus: Magdalen College’s precious Kütahya porcelain; and the green pea – still a favourite after 11,000 years
See what’s inside: scroll down for full contents.


  • The Bequest of a Gentleman

    The potters of Kütahya designed their ware to brighten monastic settings. Today these ceramics bring a glow to the old Oxford college of a discerning collector. John Carswell follows in the tracks of their journey from 18th-century Anatolia to English academe. Photographs by Lottie Davies

  • D’Aronco

    He was an Italian with a powerful affinity for the historic buildings of Ottoman Istanbul. But the architect Raimondo D’Aronco was destined to leave his own very stylish stamp on the city. Paolo Girardelli tells the story of a great European innovator

  • Sweet Peas

    A handful of green peas improves not only the flavour but the look of many a winter dish. Celeriac hearts, for example, are unthinkable without a garnish of peas. Pea soup and pilav with peas bring a beam of spring sunshine to the table.
    More cookery features

  • Hungarian Rhapsody

    Set amid pines with a glimpse of the Bosphorus is a romantic house built in the 19th century by a Hungarian-born refugee for himself and his young wife. Many such wooden houses nestle in the hills and valleys on the Asian shore. But, as Berrin Torolsan reveals, its restoration by the designer Serdar Gülgün has been a rare labour of love. Photographs by Jürgen Frank

  • Digging the Dirt…

    Osman Hamdi and the American’s rocky start in the Ottoman Empire, by Robert Ousterhout and Renata Holod

  • Pushing the Boat Out

    Furnished and burnished: the varnished hulls of three of Rıfat Edin’s 12-foot dinghies in his Istanbul seaside garden. He has built more than 30 of these nippy wooden sailing boats to original Edwardian blueprints preserved in a Bosphorus yalı

Inside the issue


  1. Norman Stone on a good man in Albania [available online]
  2. Timothy Daunt on colourful British diplomats [available online]
  3. Maureen Freely on the lives of 18th-century women
  4. Roger Norman on inspired translations of Rumi


  1. Sweet Peas from Stone Age staple to petit pois by Berrin Torolsan


  1. Private View by Andrew Finkel
  2. State of the Arts by Michael Hornsby
  3. Letter from Anatolia by Roger Norman
  4. Village voices by Azize Ethem
  5. Eating Out Andrew Finkel on smart dining in Istanbul
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