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Issue 22, 2000/2001

The Sultan’s Chalet

£8.00 / $10.39 / €9.51
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One of Cornucopia’s most popular issues takes us to the magnificent guesthouse built for Kaiser Wilhelm II in the heart of Istanbul, the rarely visited Şale Koşk in Yıldız Park, photographed by Fritz von der Schulenburg. We head to Kula waters for the revival of an Aegean spa, hunt for wild flowers in Kasnak and discover the art of Aivazovsky, artist to the sultans. Norman Stone investigates the Berlin brain drain to Turkey in the late 1930s, and the late Anthony Bryer pays homage to the legend, Steven Runciman, bard of Byzantium (whose biography, Outlandish Knight, has just been published. Meanwhile, Berrin Torolsan will turn you into a meatball wizard


  • Painter to Four Tsars, Two Sultans and a Pope

    The Russian artist Ivan Aivazovsky may have been derided by the avant-garde, but his dreamy seascapes and atmospheric panoramas won him patrons in high places. Ivan Samarine rediscovers a 19th-century virtuoso

  • Music to a Sultan’s Ears

    Visitors to 1830s Istanbul were astonished to hear the strains of Rossini and Donizetti performed by Ottoman bands. As Emre Aracı reveals, Western music was the passion of Mahmud II

  • The Sultan’s Chalet

    The world’s grandest chalet was built by Abdülhamid II for the visit of Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1889 and was a powerhouse of political activity in the final years of the empire. Today the house in the grounds of Yıldız Palace, on a hill in Istanbul, is all but forgotten. Philip Mansel treads softly through its silent halls. Photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg

  • Hot news from Kula

    To save its fine architecture, a volcanologist has come up with a plan: to turn Kula into an elegant spa town by tapping its plentiful thermal springs. By Roger Williams. Photographs by Jean Marie del Moral and Roger Williams

  • Meatball Wizard

    Three köftes still stand out in my memory. Just thinking of them makes my taste buds ache. The first was in my early childhood: freshly grilled cizbiz kofte, a round patty the size of a flattened walnut, so named because it makes a delicious ‘jiz-biz’ sizzling sound as it cooks…
    More cookery features

  • The Secret Garden of Kasnak

    High in the Toros Mountains, Chris Gardener finds the remote Kasnak Forest carpeted with peonies in spring. Photographs by Kate Clow

Inside the issue


  1. 'A Shared World: Christians and Muslims in the Early Modern Mediterranean', by Molly Greene. Reviewed by David Barchard
  2. A Soup For The Qan, by Paul E Buel and Eugene N Anderson. Reviewed by Antony Wynn. [available online]
  3. Poetic Justice, by David Barchard (1947–2020). [available online]
  4. 'Islam and Society in Turkey', by David Shankland. Reviewed by David Barchard


  1. Meatball Wizard The making of great köfte, by Berrin Torrolsan [extract available online]

Regular Features

  1. Trade Secrets Prize-winning painted porcelain, by Elizabeth Meath Baker
  2. Village Voices by Azize Ethem
  3. Istanbul Diary by Andrew Finkel
  4. Eating Out by Andrew Finkel
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