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Cover story
Aphrodite's domain
by John Julius Norwich with photographs by Ara Güler

The finest school of sculpture in all antiquity was in Aphrodisias. Above the valleys of the Meander in Turkey's Aegean hinterland, this favourite city of the Emperor Augustus remained largely unknown until the photographer Ara Güler brought it to the attention of the Princeton scholar Kenan T Erim in 1959. Here Ara Güler returns to the city and John Julius Norwich recalls Professor Erim and his first impressions of the sculptures that took his breath away.

 

Churches of the rock
by David Barchard with photographs by Sigurd Kranendonk .

High on the central Anatolian plateau, the craggy undulations of Cappadocia's volcanic landscape conceal a silent world: countless Byzantine sanctuaries and cathedrals lovingly hollowed from the rock. David Barchard finds two valleys undisturbed since the Dark Ages.

Cappadocia on horseback
Cornucopia 35


 

Lake shore drive
John Ash at the ruins of Kubadabad
Photographs by Sigurd Kranendonk and John Ash

 

Golden masonry is all that remains of the Palace of Kubadabad, the legendary retreat built for a Seljuk sultan by the cool, calm waters of Lake Beysehir. John Ash, a New York poet, finds a land entranced

 

Divan inspiration
John Carswell in Amasya and Tokat with photographs by Simon Upton

 

Amasya, Tokat and Merzifon were once on the trade routes to China, centres of scholarship and commerce. Today they are secluded enclaves of traditional pleasures. John Carswell enjoys a feast of delicate architecture and heady wines.

 

Right: Ilk Pansyon, Amasya

Also in theis issue
Vintners of Tokat: Ali Riza Diren

Profile

A stranger in paradise
Louise Page Morris talks to Sinan Korle

In 1923, Louise Page Morris left the United States for a new life in Turkey, where her husband had been posted by an American tobacco company. Now in her nineties, last year she talked to the late Sinan Korle, head of protocol at the UN, about the most enduring memories of her stay in a land "beautiful beyond dreams"

 

Cookery

 

Bright orange
Oranges from salad to sorbet
Text and photographs by Berrin Torolsan.

Radiant orbs of sunshine, oranges bring delight to the senses with the heady scent of their blossom, the spice of their fragrant peel, the mouth-watering tang of the juicy flesh. Berrin Torolsan picks the best of the zest.

For a complete list of Berrin Torolsan's cookery stories in Cornucopia, see our cookery index.
Selected recipes are also available online: menus.

Recipes:

Sardalya Pilakisi
Sardines with Orange

Portakalli Ciger Yahnisi
Chicken Livers with Orange

Portakal Salatasi
Orange Salad

Portakalli Dondurma
Orange Ice Cream

Portakal Dondurmasi
Orange sorbet

Portakal Kompostosu
Orange Compote

Elmasiye
Orange Jelly

Portakal Peltesi
Opaque Orange jelly

Orange Cheesecake with Yoghurt

Portakal Kabugu Sekerlemesi
Candied Orange Peel Rolls

Portakal Receli
Orange Preserve

Portakal Likörü
Opaque Orange Liqueur

Profile

Arif Mardin
by David Barchard

Where would American pop be without Arif Mardin, who left his venerable Ottoman family for a mixing desk in the US?

Arif Mardin died in June 2006.

For details of The Arif Mardin Music Fellowship, contact the American Turkish Society

Art

Vibrant visions
by Valerian Freyberg

Sotheby's took a bold step by including contemporary paintings in their grand first-ever Turkish sale.

 

The dark lines of Metin Bereketli's 1996 'LA, LA, LA' are reminiscent of figures by the graffiti artist Keith Haring

 


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Regular Features:


Restaurant Reviews
by Andrew Finkel and Molly McAnailly Burke

Book reviews by David Barchard, John Carswell , Derek Hill and Sevil Delin

Botany: The first crop of cultivted snowdrop bulbs is celebrated in the village of Dumlugoze in the Tauris Mountains

Architecture: Tozan House in Tesvikiye

Shopping, Travel, Property & Hotel Directories

 
Cornucopia Issue 11: Anatolia Rediscovered