Future perfect: Hussein Chalayan by Melanie Rickey with photographs by Stephen Lock, Sinead Lynch and Heathcliffe O'Malley
Hussein Chalayan's clothes are exquisitely restrained and lyrically beautiful concoctions that represent the idea that clothes should be treated as architecture for the body.
Part 1: Reflections on Water by Patricia Daunt with photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg
Minutes from the Mediterranean, Lake Koycegiz is a beautiful backwater lost in time. Cornucopia devotes 40 pages to the lake, its people, its unique basket houses and the house that Ali Riza Pasha built
Speeding east along the coast road to Antalya, it is easy to miss the great Lake of Koycegiz hidden among the orange groves on your right. Visitors at nearby Dalyan sail regularly back and forth between the famous spit of sand where turtles nest and the ancient ruins of Caunus four miles away. They may even visit the mud baths at the tip of the lake. But they seldom venture into the lake itself, strangely insulated from both the highway and the tourist throng and a fragile area of ecological significance.
A reminder that this is a volcanic land: the sulphurous waters of Sultaniye, on the southwest tip of he lake, have been an attraction for centuries. Visitors cake themselves in thick mud before taking to the hot spring pool in the domed bathhouse.
Koycegiz's black villagers, famed for their old-fashioned courtesy descend from slaves and freemen who came from Africa from the 18th century onwards.
Part 2: Artist in Residence by Patricia Daunt with photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg
Sema Menteseoglu returned to Koycegiz in 1992, after thirty years, to find her family home in perilous disrepair. Just a handful of people remained in the ancestral village. She set about putting house and estate in order and brought her painterly eye to the restoration of the konak, now well advanced and embellished with her own creations.
Sema Menteseoglu's home is featured in At Home in Turkeyby Solvi dos Santos & Cornucopia's publisher, Berrin Torolsan
Part 3: The basket houses by Patricia Daunt with photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg
The whole Koycegiz area is famous for its dwellings of woven wood. The best surviving ones are in Hamitkoy, on the lake's eastern shore. These unique primitive habitations, now abandoned for concrete dwellings probably date back to antiquity.
Capacious Moses baskets, mini Noah's arks, giant sedan chairs or even unusual mobile homes, these singular constructions perfectly resist the vagaries of the lake's environment and are virtually impervious to earthquakes. The pliant local form of wattle is plaited through stakes of the sweet-smelling, insect repellent Liquidambar orientalis, the source of church incense. Walnut, lime or pine floors and doors, unpaned windows, shutters and outside verandas are then incorporated before the whole building is roofed with either lake reeds or local tiles. Traditionally they were crowned with the distinctive Mugla chimney, and their walls coated inside and out with a lime and mud plaster.
When Sultan Abdulaziz embarked on his unprecedented state tour of Europe in 1867, no expense was spared in making him welcome. What most impressed him, it seems, were the musical extravaganzas: visits to the opera, glittering concerts and massed choirs trained to sing his praises in Turkish.
Also in this issue Ates Orga reviews the film Mozart in Turkey by Mick Csaky and Elijah Moshinsky. The documentary follows the staging of Die Entfuhrung aus dem Serail at the Topkapi Palace.
Abdulaziz arriving in Dover. His every move would be recorded in words and pictures
Sultan Abdulaziz photographed by Vassilaki Kargopoulo
Bad old days: a travellers guide to Gallipoli by William Gurney
The sad, heroic history of Gallipoli is written in every gully and ridge of the beautiful peninsula. William Gurney combs the battleground for clues
Last day of the evacuation. Second from right is Commodore Keyes, who had helped persuade Churchill to call off the futile campaign. At least 60,000 Turks died repelling the invasion
Pluck up the courage Offal for the fearless text and photographs by Berrin Torolsan
If the thought of offal makes you wince, be bold. Overcome your fears and your efforst will be handsomely rewarded. Berrin Torolsan goes head over heals for offal, with a range of dishes for the timorous and the die-hard
For a complete list of Berrin Torolsan's cookery stories in Cornucopia, see our cookery index. Selected recipes are also available online: menus.
The recipes: Arnavut Cigeri Albanian Liver Ciger Yahnisi Spicy Liver Stew Bobrek Sote Sauteed Kidney Iskembe Corbasi Tripe Soup Yogurtlu Paca Trotters in Yoghurt Sauce Beyin Salatasi Brain Salad Beyin Tavasi Brain Fritters Dil Tongue Mumbar ve Sirden Dolmasi Deep-Fried Sausages Ciger Sarma Crepinettes Kikirdakli Pogaca Savoury Crackling Pie
Arts
Let the cymbals sound by Lesley Tahtakilic with photographs by Fritz von der Schulenburg
Drummers are like children in a sweetshop when they see the rows of cymbals shining on their racks at Istanbul Agop, a Mecca for muscians the world over.
Books
Henry Glassie and David Barchard select the best of a torrent of new books on architecture, calligraphy, pottery, rugs and carpets, history, language and fiction
Iznik by Nurhan Atasoy and Julian Raby, recommended in this issue, has been reprinted and is now available to subscribers
Add Issue 20 to the basket £8/US$12.80 Published 2000
